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FACADE OF THE CATHEDRAL OF ZACATECAS 






'l^ 



HISTORIC 
CHURCHES 
IN MEXICO 

WITH SOME OF THEIR 
LEGENDS 



BY 



MRS. JOHN WESLEY BUTLER 



gOBlnGbOR>RES 




THE ABINGDON PRESS 

NEW YORK CINCINNATI 






Copyright, 191;, by 
MRS. JOHN WESLEY BUTLER 



DEC -8 1915 

OaA4l6763 



TO MY HUSBAND 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 



Foreword , . 15 

CHAPTER I 

The Church of Tlaxcala 21 

The Churches of Cholula 16 

The Church of Naucalpan, with the Virgin 

of Remedios , 30 

CHAPTER II 

The Churches of Mexico City 

The Cathedral 43 

The Monastery and Church of San Francisco ^1^ 

CHAPTER III 

The Churches of Mexico City (Continued) 
The Church of Santa Teresa de la Antigua 67 

The Church of San Agustin 75 

The Convent and Church of Jesus Maria 79 

CHAPTER IV 

The Churches of Mexico City (Continued) 

The Church of Santo Domingo .... 85 

7 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 



PAGE 



The Church and Hospital of Jesus Naza- 

reno 91 

CHAPTER V 

The Churches of Mexico City (Continued) 

The Church of La Soledad 97 

The Church of the Black Christ .... 102 

The Church of the Virgin of "The Cande- 

larita" 104 

CHAPTER VI 

The Chapel on the Hill, Guadalupe . . iii 

The Church of the Sacro Monte, Ameca- 

meca 128 

CHAPTER VII 

The Cathedral of Guadalajara 141 

The Cathedral of Zacatecas 143 

The Cathedral of Puebla (City of the Angels) 144 

The Cathedral of Cuernavaca 151 

The Cathedral of Morelia 158 

CHAPTER VIII 

The Church at Taxco, Guerrero . . . . 165 

The Church of Tepotzotlan, Mexico . . 166 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

PAGE 

Legend of the Image ot Our Lady of 

Guanajuato 173 

The Valenciana Church, Guanajuato . . 174 

The Church of San Antonio, Coyoacan . 178 

The Church in Cuautla 180 

Church and Convent in AtHxco, Puebla . 183 

CHAPTER IX 

The Church of Ocotlan, Tlaxcala . . . 191 
The Parish Church of San Miguel de 

Allende, Guanajuato 197 

The Church of El Roble, Monterey . . 198 

CHAPTER X 

The Churches of Qijeretaro 

The Church of Santa Rosa 209 

The Santa Clara Church and Convent . . 216 

The Santa Cruz Church, Queretaro . . . 223 

CHAPTER XI 

The Churches of Vera Cruz 

The Church of San Francisco .... 229 

The Parochial Church 229 

The Church of San Agustin 231 

The Church of the Black Christ .... 234 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

CHAPTER XII 

The Churches of Oaxaca 

PAGE 

The Church of La Soledad 241 

The Church of Santo Domingo .... 249 



10 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE 



Facade of the Cathedral of Zacatecas . Frontispiece 
Tlaxcala, First Pulpit in the Western 

Hemisphere 23 

Cholula, the Church on the Pyramid . . 27 

The Chapel Royal, Cholula, Puebla . . 31 

Domes of Chapel Royal i^S 

The Cathedral, Mexico City 45 

Domes of San Francisco Church, Trinity 

Church in the Foreground .... 51 
Facade of San Francisco Church .... c^c^ 
Vestibule of the Old San Francisco Mon- 
astery 61 

A Corner of Santa Teresa Church ... 71 

San Agustin Church 75 

Church at Campo Florido, Mexico City, 

Showing Effects of Bombardment . 81 

Church and Plaza of Santo Domingo . . 87 

Primitive Belfry 98 

Virgin of La Soledad de Santa Cruz . . 105 

II 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

PAGE 

Church on the Hill, Guadalupe, with 

the Stone Sails 113 

The Image Printed on the Tilma . . . 117 

Interior of Guadalupe Cathedral . . , . 121 

The Crown of the Virgin of Guadalupe . 125 
Sacro Monte Church, Amecameca, En- 
trance to the Cave at the Right of the 

Shrine 129 

Image in the Cave, Sacro Monte . . . 133 
Pilgrim Climbing on Her Knees, Sacro 

Monte, Amecameca 137 

Puebla Cathedral 147 

Image in Puebla Cathedral 150 

Cuernavaca Cathedral 153 

Entrance to Cathedral Close, Cuernavaca . 155 
Via Dolorosa, Morelia, which Pilgrims 

Traverse on Their Knees . . . . 159 

Cathedral, Morelia 161 

Richly Decorated Interior of Taxco Church 167 

Valenciana Church, Guanajuato . . . . 169 

Tepotzotlan Church 171 

Our Lady of Guanajuato 175 

Railway Station, Cuautla, Formerly a 

Church 181 

12 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 



PAGE 



Church and Convent at Foot of Pyramid, 

Atlixco 185 

Church of San Miguel de Allende . . . 199 

Ruins of El Roble Church 201 

Virgin of the Rosary in Santo Domingo 

de Guzman Church, Queretaro, one 

of the Most Beautiful and Richly 

Adorned of the Modern Madonnas . 203 

Santa Clara Church, Queretaro . . . . 210 

Elaborately Carved Pulpit and Columns of 

Santa Clara Church 213 

Rich Carving in Santa Rosa Church, Qiiere- 

taro 217 

Pulpit, Santa Rosa Church, Qiieretaro . . 221 
Church of La Cruz, Qiieretaro .... 224 

San Benito, the Holy Negro, with many 

Votive Ribbons ....... 235 

Virgin of La Soledad, with Robe embroid- 
ered with Pearls, and wearing the Crown 

costing 150,000 pesos 242 

Church of La Soledad, Oaxaca .... 243 

Santo Domingo, Oaxaca 247 

Interior of Santo Domingo Church, Oaxaca 251 
The "Tree of David," on Ceiling of Santo 

Domingo, Oaxaca 255 

13 



FOREWORD 

My purpose is to write, not of the churches 
of Mexico, nor even of the larger churches, 
but, as the title indicates, of the historic 
churches; that is to say, the churches which 
have gathered about themselves a certain his- 
tory, and, particularly, a certain amount of 
legend and folklore. To the Mexican, and 
doubtless also to the general public, the chief 
interest in these sacred edifices is due not to 
the date of founding or the details of archi- 
tectural design and construction so much as to 
the legends of the titular saint, the richness 
of the altar, the images and paintings with the 
stories peculiar to them. Most of the Mex- 
ican churches owe their importance and, in 
some cases, their existence to some special 
image, mysterious painting, or miraculous 
cross. 

These churches were designed by Spanish 
architects or by Mexicans who had learned 
their art from Spaniards. The workmen, ex- 
cepting those employed for the more elaborate 

15 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

and delicate parts, were Indians, whose labor, 
though arduous and in some cases enforced, 
was on the whole a labor of love. Some of 
the churches, together with certain convents 
and monasteries, were erected at the expense 
of wealthy men, either in the lifetime of the 
donors or from legacies. The number of 
churches, taking the country over, at one period 
was almost beyond belief. Not infrequently 
the impression in visiting a town was that 
the space covered by churches exceeded that 
given over to the dwellings of the people. 
Indeed, more money was invested in religious 
edifices and other church property than in 
the homes of the people. There were at one 
time in Mexico City three hundred churches 
of solid stone masonry, equivalent to one 
church for every eight hundred inhabitants. 

The decorations and the variety and extent 
of the ornaments in the older churches before 
their sequestration by the Mexican govern- 
ment, in the year 1859, were bewildering. 
Cortez and his successors, in order to impress 
and hold the natives, encouraged an elaborate 
and spectacular service and made much of 
interior decoration. There were many 
statues of Christ, the Virgin, and the Saints. 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Paintings of great value adorned the walls. 
The altars were burdened with their gold and 
silver ornaments and rare jewels. Many of 
the churches have pillars and altars of the 
famous Mexican onyx, which appears to be 
growing more beautiful with the passing 
years. 

During the thirty-six years of my residence 
in Mexico, as I have from time to time wan- 
dered through the Mexican churches, some 
of which I have endeavored to describe in 
this book, I have found myself offering the 
prayer that the historic church of Mexico 
would be led to return to the simplicity and 
fervor of primitive times and, in cooperation 
with the evangelical churches of that country, 
whose purpose is not rivalry or worldly ambi- 
tion, but the establishing of the kingdom of 
our common Lord, give to the hungry mil- 
lions of Mexico the bread of life. This, it is 
perhaps needless to say, is Mexico's, as it is 
the world's chief need. 

S. A. B. 



17 



CHAPTER I 

THE CHURCH OF TLAXCALA 

THE CHURCHES OF CHOLULA 

THE CHURCH OF NAUCALPAN, 

WITH THE VIRGIN OF 

REMEDIOS 



CHAPTER I 
THE CHURCH OF TLAXCALA 

After burning his ships in the port of Vera 
Cruz in order to prevent his little army of 
eight hundred and eighty-one men from plot- 
ting to return to Spain, Cortez began his march 
to the Aztec capital (known as Tenochtitlan) 
August i6, 1 5 19. The king of the Totonacs, 
through whose country he was obliged to pass 
on his way to the capital, received him kindly 
and furnished him with provisions and guides. 
The tribe pledged him allegiance in the hope 
that through him they would recover their 
freedom from Aztec rule. 

Cortez and his followers continued their 
journey westward under favorable conditions 
until they reached the territory of the inde- 
pendent Tlaxcalans, who had refused to pay 
tribute to Moctezuma H, then ruler of the 
Aztecs. The Spaniards were received with 
open arms by the Tlaxcalans, because they 
thought they saw in Cortez the features of 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

their god Quetzalcoatl, who, according to the 
popular belief, was the son of a virgin mother 
of fair skin, wore a long white beard and was 
clothed in flowing garments of white, em- 
broidered with a red cross. It is worthy of 
note that in this very year of the landing of 
the Spaniards on Mexican soil, Quetzalcoatl 
was expected to return to the country. The 
Tlaxcalans were soon undeceived. After four 
terrible battles with the Spaniards they were 
obliged to acknowledge defeat. Four years 
later (in 1523) a church was built by the 
Spaniards to commemorate the conversion 
and baptism of the four Tlaxcalan senators 
in whom had been vested the supreme power 
of the country. 

Over the great stone font in this church 
there is the following inscription: "In this 
font the four senators of the Ancient Republic 
of Tlaxcala received the Catholic faith. The 
religious act took place in the year 1520, the 
Priest being Don Loan Diaz, chaplain of the 
conquering army, and the godfathers Captain 
Cortez and his distinguished officers." At the 
right of the font is the first pulpit used in 
America. The ceiling of the church is of 
cedar and is of fine workmanship. The beams 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

were brought from Spain. The traditional 
story is that the work on the church was done 
by angels on a single night, and that the bishop 
was greatly astonished when he came in the 
morning and found everything completed. 
This story, it may be said, is popular through- 
out Mexico, it being related of many sacred 
places with the usual incidental variations. 

Another legend connected with the Tlax- 
calan church is to the effect that a certain 
bishop pursued by enemies saw the Virgin 
in the branches of a pine tree. At a critical 
moment the trunk of the tree opened, closing 
again after he had hidden within it. His 
enemies passed by without discovering him 
or seeing anything unusual. When they had 
disappeared the tree opened again and let him 
escape. 

A painting in the church represents the 
Pope in a triumphal car drawn by a very 
plump angel. They are passing over the 
bodies of reformers, Luther and Calvin being 
dragged behind in chains. 



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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

THE CHURCHES OF CHOLULA 

After his defeat of the Tlaxcalans, Cortez, 
with his force increased to upward of six 
thousand volunteers from among the Tlax- 
calans and the Totonacs, marched westward 
until he came to the borders of Cholula where 
he was met by a large number of the native 
chiefs and their attendants, all of whom ap- 
peared friendly. A native young woman by 
the name of La Marina, who had become 
Cortez's interpreter and guide, discovered a 
plot to destroy him and his army. Cortez at 
once made preparations for defense. Firing 
off his guns and a cannon he so frightened the 
natives that they ran in every direction. There 
were no horses at this time in the New World, 
and those that the conqueror brought not only 
surprised but terrified the natives, who when 
they saw these animals decked out in fantastic 
trappings and their riders dressed in strange 
uniforms, believed that their god had returned 
and was about to punish them for their sins. 
After shooting down all who tried to escape 
Cortez renewed his march to Tenochtitlan 
(Mexico City). 

At the time of the coming of Cortez, 
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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Cholula had about 150,000 inhabitants. Its 
temples were numerous (the Spaniards 
claimed to have counted 400 towers), and it 
held a great company of priests. Indeed it 
was regarded at this time as the holy city of 
the Aztecs. Its chief temple was the famous 
pyramid of Cholula, which still remains. 
When it was built no one knows. It is com- 
posed of stone and earth, with alternate strata 
of brick and clay. The base covers an area 
of nearly 1,785 feet, and its height is 170 feet. 
On the summit of the pyramid stood a great 
temple dedicated to the worship of various 
gods, among whom was Quetzalcoatl, already 
referred to, whose influence gradually elim- 
inated human sacrifices, thousands of which 
at one period had been ofifered annually. 

On this summit of the pyramid there stands 
a church built by or under the influence of 
Cortez, and dedicated to the worship of the 
Virgin de los Remedios. At the present day 
it is plain and unattractive. Many churches 
were built in the city of Cholula, some of 
which are not used now and are falling to 
decay. 

The church of San Gabriel in the center 
of the city stands in an immense enclosure 

29 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

and was built to accommodate a vast con- 
course of Indian worshipers. It has lost its 
former glory and is going to ruin. The chapel 
adjoining has a vaulted roof which is square 
in plan, supported by sixty-four large columns 
which form seven naves, and these in turn 
are surmounted by forty-seven small domes, 
as seen in the illustration. When one enters 
this building there seems to be in the bare 
interior only long lines of stone columns and 
domes. The style was suggested by the great 
Mosque of Cordova in Spain. 



THE CHURCH OF NAUCALPAN, 

WITH THE VIRGIN OF 

REMEDIOS 

When Cortez prepared to sail from Spain 
for the New World he carried in a supply of 
images of the Virgin Mary which he set up 
in Aztec sacred places, whence the idols had 
been dethroned. On the so-called "Noche 
Triste," the night when it seemed to the Span- 
iards they would be driven from the capital 
by the Aztecs, on account of the loss by Cortez 
of an important battle, an image of the 
Virgin, known as "La Virgen de los Reme- 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

dios," mysteriously disappeared. Twelve 
years later, according to the story, this image 
was discovered under a maguey, or century 
plant, by an Indian (Aztec) cacique, or chief- 
tain, who took it to his house and placed it 
on his domestic altar, where he worshiped it 
as the Aztec "goddess of water." It suddenly 
disappeared and was again found under the 
maguey plant by the cacique, who placed it 
in a strong box and slept on the lid. It dis- 
appeared the second time and was found 
under its favorite plant. The cacique now 
communicated the matter to a priest, who 
ordered the image to be dressed in satins and 
pearls. Human hair was fastened to the head 
and a rich crown added. People in great 
numbers came for miles around to be healed 
by touching the figure. A church was built 
for it in 1575. An adjoining temple con- 
tained a stone image of the Aztec goddess of 
water which was worshiped in like manner; 
but the worship of the Virgin of Remedios 
increased in interest and the other was finally 
discarded. 

According to common report the Virgin 
has performed innumerable miracles. In 
times of drought it was the custom to bring 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the image to Mexico City, about ten miles 
distant from the church, with the Viceroy on 
foot leading a procession of some forty thou- 
sand to fifty thousand people, including all 
the highest representatives of the government, 
the church and the army. As the image 
passed through the cloisters of the convents 
the nuns fell upon their knees in humble 
adoration. 

Though the image is less than a foot in 
height it w^as the owner of robes said to have 
cost $3,000,000. These robes were literally 
covered with diamonds, pearls, and other 
precious stones. In view of its traditional 
liking for the maguey plant a miniature one 
of silver was constructed for it. It holds in its 
arms a diminutive figure of the infant Christ. 

During the War of Independence, in 1810- 
1820, the image was chosen by the Spaniards 
as their emblem, and was called "General of 
the Royal Army." Hidalgo, the patriot 
priest, leader of the Revolutionists, on the 
other hand, set up the Virgin of Guadalupe 
as the patroness of the Mexicans. These rival 
Virgins were mounted on horseback in full 
uniform. The Virgin of Remedios failed to 
protect the Spaniards or to bring them vic- 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

tory. Disheartened and chagrined, the Span- 
iards ordered that the image be banished. 
But the people pleaded so earnestly that it 
was allowed to remain with its church in 
spite of its lost prestige. The Virgin of 
Guadalupe was declared victor. Later, when 
the Reform Laws were put into effect, the 
silver railing, the silver maguey pedestal, and 
the jewels of the Remedios Virgin went into 
the Government exchequer. Afterwards ^jJ^^ 

these revenues aided in the establishment of j^t" 
the present system of secular schools. It re- 
mains to be said that the old church is now 
shorn of its former adornments and has com- 
pletely lost its former popularity. In 191 2 the 
image was brought to the capital and received 
in the Cathedral by the dean and dignitaries 
of the church in the hope of restoring peace 
to the nation. On March 9, at seven o'clock 
in the morning, the first function was held, 
the archbishop officiating as celebrant. At 
ten o'clock a sermon was preached, followed 
by another at five. Then a procession filed 
through the aisles of the Cathedral carrying 
the image. The archbishop walked under a 
canopy of silk carried on poles by officials of 
the church in citizens' garb. For nine days 

37 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

these functions continued. The writer wit- 
nessed one morning the profound devotion of 
many worshipers, hundreds of people who 
were sitting or kneeling on the dusty floor 
intent upon repeating the prayers from their 
books. The gates of the chancel were closed 
to keep out the throng, but men, women, and 
children stood on the steps leading to the 
altar, climbed the altar railings, or stretched 
their arms within the rails endeavoring if pos- 
sible to touch the sacred figure. A refined 
elderly gentleman with a lady of mature years 
by his side stood with his hands clasped upon 
his breast, his eyes fixed upon the image, the 
lady reading to him passages from a small 
book. The tones of her voice were subdued, 
full of pathos, and at times trembled with 
intensity of emotion. She paused occasionally 
to wipe away the great tear drops that coursed 
down her cheeks. At times she addressed her 
companion with great feeling, the sentence 
often ending in a sob. He would bow his 
head in acquiescence, still gazing with rap- 
ture upon the image of the Virgin, Doubt- 
less some relative or friend had joined one 
of the armies, and this couple were pleading 
with all the fervor and intensity of their nature 

38 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

for the preservation of these precious lives 
and the restoration of peace to the nation. 

On March i8 the image was taken to the 
station in an automobile followed by an im- 
mense crowd, many of whom accompanied it 
to the old church, where it was again placed 
in its now humble shrine. 



39 



CHAPTER II 
THE CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

THE CATHEDRAL 

THE MONASTERY AND CHURCH OF SAN 
FRANCISCO 



CHAPTER II 
CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

THE CATHEDRAL 

The Cathedral in Mexico City, one of the 
largest and most imposing church buildings 
in the world, occupies the site of an ancient 
Aztec Temple. The present building was 
begun in 1573, following the command of 
Philip II of Spain, but the first service was 
not held until 1626, the actual consecration 
of the building taking place nine years later. 
The building was completed in 1667, its cost 
exclusive of adornments being estimated at 
$2,000,000. 

Interesting accounts are given of the trans- 
fer of the Cathedral to the church authorities. 
On January 30, 1656, the dean and the chap- 
ter met and were joined by the Viceroy, 
Cadereita by name, his wife and daughter. 
The Duke of Albuquerque, whose efforts had 
helped greatly to push the work of construc- 

43 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

tion, in the name of the King, delivered the 
keys of the building to the chapter. Follow- 
ing this ceremony, the Viceroy, accompanied 
by his family, proceeded to the presbytery 
and, kneeling reverently, kissed its first step. 
Each person then took a broom and proceeded 
to sweep the presbytery, doubtless in imita- 
tion of the Lord's cleansing of the Temple. 
That the ceremony was largely symbolic may 
be understood from the record, which states 
that on the previous day the Viceroy had 
employed two hundred people to do the work. 

When the Cathedral was finally dedicated 
immense gifts for interior decorations were 
presented by wealthy Spaniards, gifts aggre- 
gating, we are told, for gold and silver orna- 
ments alone, $1,800,000. Jose de la Borda, a 
wealthy miner, gave a chalice covered with 
gems valued at $300,000. Later, when de la 
Borda was in financial straits he asked for the 
return of the gift, a request which was granted 
by the archbishop. The chalice was sold for 
one-third its original cost. 

In Colonial times the annual appropriation 
from the Royal Treasury of Spain for the 
maintenance of the Cathedral was 18,000 
pesos, and one year i^poo pesos were granted 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

by the Crown. The Duke of Albue]uere]ue 
gave frequent donations, as did other high 
personages ; but much of the money needed for 
maintenance came from the poor people, in 
spite of the fact that at that time very little 
money was in circulation and the Indians 
were taxed in every conceivable way. Even 
now one wonders how the expenses of so vast 
a temple can be met, surrounded as it is by so 
many other churches. 

There are twenty-one bells in the twin 
towers which reach a height of 204 feet from 
the pavement. The largest of the bells is 
10 feet across and i6y2 feet high and w^eighs 
27,000 pounds. The clapper is 8 feet long 
and weighs 500 pounds. It was cast in Tacu- 
baya in 1792, and a month was required to 
raise it to the tower. It is said its sweet tones 
can be heard six miles away on a clear day. 
A few years ago other bells were added, and 
it was most interesting to watch the people 
examine the pulleys, the immense ropes, and 
other appliances used in hoisting them from 
the pavement. Bells are rung in Mexico in 
a peculiar manner: a rope is attached to the 
tongue and the ringer pulls at the other end. 
Then he lets the rope go quickly, which sends 

47 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the tongue against the metal with a harsh, 
clanging sound. 

A number of persons have committed sui- 
cide from the Cathedral belfries by flinging 
themselves out over the parapet and falling on 
the stone pavement. Recently the authorities 
ordered that the belfries be inclosed with high 
railings to prevent these tragedies. 

There are seventeen entrances on the three 
sides of the Cathedral. Its length is 400 feet, 
its width more than 200, and its height about 
180 feet. The high altar is constructed on a 
grand scale. Green malachite pillars with 
gold capitals support the dome above the 
altar. The statue of Our Lady of the Assump- 
tion, the patron saint of the Cathedral, cost 
$3,000, and six months were required for its 
construction. The massive railings on each 
side of the nave are an amalgam of silver, 
gold, and copper, and were made in China at 
a cost of over, $1,000,000. The weight is said 
to be twenty-six tons. At intervals, twenty 
fluted Doric columns, 18 feet in circum- 
ference and 180 feet in height, support the 
arches in the center. Seven ornamented 
chapels on each side contain paintings en- 
cased in massive gilt frames. The choir, en- 

48 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

riched with alternate wood and stone carvings, 
obstructs the view of the imposing high altar. 
Light comes only from very high windows 
near the dome. The organ is said to have 
3,500 pipes. The huge doors called storm 
doors are twenty-five feet high. 

Among the numerous paintings in the 
Cathedral is one known as the Christ of the 
Cacao-beans (El Sefior del Cacao), which was 
purchased with the proceeds of the sale of an 
enormous lot of these beans when they were 
used as money by certain Mexican tribes. In 
one of the chapels of the Cathedral is an 
image of the Virgin with face and hands of 
ivory. In the Sagrario is a small image of a 
woman, dressed in a hair shirt, holding in 
one hand a disciplina, or scourge, and in the 
other a crucifix. A rosary hangs from her 
girdle. 

One of the characteristic ceremonies con- 
nected with the Cathedral and perhaps the 
most spectacular of any, is the Lavatorio, or 
washing of the feet of twelve poor men on 
Friday o-f- Holy Week-;- A carpeted space is 
partitioned ofif with benches. The twelve 
barefooted men are dressed in coarse dark 
cassocks. A silver basin and pitcher are car- 

49 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

ried respectively by a deacon and subdeacon. 
Two candles are lighted upon the altar and 
the venerable dean of the Cathedral canons 
intones a few scriptural verses. Girding him- 
self with a towel, he then proceeds to wash 
the feet of these men in imitation of Christ 
washing the feet of his disciples. The right 
foot of the first man is placed in the silver 
basin and water is poured upon it from the 
pitcher. The dean then dries the man's foot 
and kisses it; the deacon and subdeacon follow 
his example. These three priests, still kneel- 
ing, move slowly to the next man and con- 
tinue the ceremony with the remainder of 
the men, who then retire to the sacristy where 
each one is given a piece of money by the 
priests. 

Of all the churches of the country, the 
Cathedral of Mexico is the church of the 
common people, by whom it was largely con- 
structed. Even in the days when it was the 
church of the elite and the fashionable of the 
city, the poor were found there in great num- 
bers. Women coming from the market may 
be seen kneeling on the wooden floor with 
their baskets of provisions on their arms or 
at their sides. Peones in their workaday garb 

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will be found kneeling by the side of men in 
fashionable attire. Poor mothers with their 
dirty and unkempt children can be observed 
squatting together in a heap with aristocratic 
ladies kneeling near by. During mass a stream 
of people pass in and out wending their way 
between the crowd of kneeling worshipers. 

The Cathedral has been the scene of many 
stirring incidents and important historical 
events. It was here that Maximilian, who 
was chosen by Louis Napoleon to be ruler of 
Mexico, was crowned emperor, and his wife 
Carlota empress of Mexico. On the night of 
this event the plaza, on whose west side the 
Cathedral is located, assumed a gala appear- 
ance, but the ancient church outstripped it in 
brilliancy, for from its foundation to its high- 
est pinnacle lamps were burned and innumer- 
able bells pealed forth their welcome. 



THE MONASTERY AND CHURCH OF 
SAN FRANCISCO 

On December 27, 1908, there appeared in 
one of the daily papers of Mexico City the 
follow^ing paragraph : 

53 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

^'Laborers are tearing down the thick walls 
of the south eastern portion of El Gran Con- 
vento de Mexico, the old Franciscan monas- 
tery, the most venerated, the richest in 
historical associations, the most zealous in 
mission work among the Indians, the largest, 
and in every sense the most interesting monas- 
tery in the New World." 

These walls covered an area of four city 
blocks and had sunk by their own weight 
(some of the walls being ten feet thick) a 
considerable distance into the spongy subsoil. 
The monastery was built on the site of 
Moctezuma's (the Aztec Emperor) palace, 
the galleries of which were supported on im- 
mense stone pillars and opened into gardens 
with palms and fountains. The land was 
given by Cortez to the Franciscan monks who 
accompanied him from Spain. The building 
materials were taken mostly from the great 
teocalli dedicated to the worship of Huitzilo- 
pochtli, the Aztec god of war. 

One of the builders of the monastery was 
Friar Pedro de Gante (reputed son of 
Charles V of Spain), who is credited with 
having built one hundred churches and 
chapels in Mexico, and having established 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the first primary school not only in Mexico 
but on this continent. 

The San Franciscan Foundation, which 
took upward of two hundred years to com- 
plete, contained an immense church and seven 
large chapels, with additional chapels in the 
residences of the Superior and other officials, 
together with dormitories capable of accom- 
modating five hundred monks, whose cells 
extended over two entire blocks. The entire 
Foundation, which included stables, orchards, 
and gardens, was enclosed by massive stone 
walls. 

How the great Church of San Francisco 
impressed a visitor is shown by the account 
written by Madame de Calderon, the Amer- 
ican wife of the first Spanish minister to 
Mexico, who visited the church on Holy 
Thursday in the year 1840: 

"This church of the old Franciscan Monas- 
tery is very splendid and the walls were hung 
''with canvas paintings. Before the altar, 
which was dazzling with jewels, was a repre- 
sentation of the Lord's Supper, not in painting 
but in sculptured figures as large as life, 
ihabited in Jewish dresses. The bishop and 
priests were in a blaze of gold and jewels." 

57 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

An anecdote of the renowned Viceroy 
Revillagigedo may serve to show not only how 
strictly he performed the duties of his office, 
but also the intimate relation of church and 
state in that period. The Viceroy frequently 
went about incognito, attended by one or two 
aides-de-camp. By his order no monk could 
be out of his convent after vespers. Walking 
one evening on the street, he encountered a 
monk in a San Franciscan street, enjoying the 
evening with boon companions. The Viceroy 
deliberately turned his steps in the direction 
of the convent. He proceeded at once to 
attend to the business in hand and asked the 
abbot, "How many monks have you in your 
convent, Father?" 

"Fifty, your Excellency." 

"There are now only forty-nine," replied 
the Viceroy. "Call their names, see which is 
the missing brother, and let his name be struck 
out." 

When the list was called only forty-five 
monks responded to their names. By order of 
the Viceroy the five monks were never again 
admitted to the convent. 

On account of a plot against President 
Comonfort, disclosed September 14, 1856, the 

58 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

monastery was suppressed. A few months 
later a monster petition was presented to the 
President asking that the monks be allowed 
to reopen it. This was granted, but with re- 
strictions. Four years later Benito Juarez, 
the leader of the Liberal party, with some of 
his staff, visited the convent and demanded 
admission. The monks made no response. 
Then with pickax and crowbar a place in 
one of the walls was opened to admit the 
soldiers. Crossing the garden, they made 
similar openings in the opposite walls. Two 
streets were then cut through the heart of the 
convent. One was named for Friar Gante 
and the other was called "Independencia," to ]) 
emphasize the liberty which the Reform f'- 
party had achieved. The property was 
mapped out and the lots were sold at extremely 
low prices, the sum total being less than 
$350,000. Stores, churches, hotels, and dwell- 
ings went up as fast as the purchasers could 
build. The land alone is now enormously 
valuable. 

One of the purchasers of this property was 
the Missionary Society of the Methodist 
Episcopal Church, whose selection, one hun- 
dred and eighty feet in depth and eighty feet 

59 



f.G/' 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

in width, fronted on the Calle de Gante, just 
off San Francisco Street, and opposite the 
Hotel Iturbide, once the palace of the Em- 
peror Iturbide. This purchase represented 
about one-fiftieth of the entire San Francisco 
Foundation. 

The Church of San Francisco, which joins 
this property in the rear and fronts on San 
Francisco Street, still remains, but with its 
fagade shorn of ornaments, including the 
statues of the saints, and with trees and 
shrubbery taking the place of the paved 
atrium, and pigeons occupying the niches. 
The interior has been modernized, the elabo- 
rate decorations of the early period being re- 
placed by a more up-to-date display. 

Entering the vestibule of the church, one 
will see on the right a broad flight of stairs. 
At the head of this stairway hangs a large 
crucifix with a life-size image of Christ, with 
the Virgin on the right. On Good Friday 
the gates at the foot of the stairs are opened, 
when a notice is seen which reads : ''The Holy 
Stairs will be open for the devotion of the 
faithful from six o'clock Friday morning till 
six in the afternoon. Those who ascend on 
their knees will gain the same indulgences as 

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are conceded at the Holy Stairs in Rome." 
The devotees, after reaching the top, deposit 
money on a tray, and walk down another 
stairway. All day long and far into the night 
fashionably dressed men and women climb 
these stairs repeating prayers. At night thou- 
sands of people make the rounds of churches 
again, believing that the salvation of their 
souls is made surer by the number of churches 
they visit during these two days, as well as 
by the number of prayers they ofifer. 

The church of San Felipe de Jesus, ad- 
joining this building, occupies the site of two 
chapels of the old Monastery and was built 
iupon the old foundations, under the auspices 
of the Jesuits. The fagade is modern, the rear 
walls being built of fragments of the old 
chapels referred to. On religious feast days 
the Church of San Felipe is filled with the 
aristocracy of the city, whose carriages and 
lautomobiles line the streets for blocks each 
way. 

It will be of interest to recall that the prin- 
cipal theater in the City of Mexico had its 
origin in the miracle and biblical plays of the 
iSan Francisco Monastery, which were per- 
formed to teach the people the legends con- 
nected with their worship. 

63 



CHAPTER III 

THE CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

(Continued) 

the church of santa teresa de la antigua 

the church of san agustin 
the convent and church of jesus maria 



chapter iii 
the: churches of Mexico city 

(continued) 

church of santa teresa de la antigua 

Of almost more interest than anything con- 
nected with this church is the fact that the 
first printing press in the New World was 
established in the corner house adjoining the 
sacred edifice. It was brought from Europe 
at the request of Bishop Zumarraga in 1536, 
by Viceroy Mendoza. The first printer was 
Juan Paoli of Brescia, Italy, who was sent to 
Mexico by Comberger. The first printed book 
appeared in 1536. The Spanish missionaries 
made good use of the press, which was active 
nearly a century before a similar establish- 
ment was set up in the United States. The 
church was built upon the site of the palace 
of Axayactl, the father of Moctezuma. In 
this palace were a multitude of idols to which, 
though they had no separate temple, various 

67 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

feasts were dedicated. In this spacious and 
magnificent palace the Spaniards were be- 
leaguered in 1519. After the Conquest most 
of the idols were broken and destroyed. 

The conquerors held here their first Holy 
Week services after entering the Valley of 
Mexico. The church was founded upon the 
tradition of a marvelous crucifix and image. 
According to the authorized legend, a gentle- 
man of noble family and heroic deeds brought 
from the kingdom of Castilla in 1545 among 
other sacred images one called the Holy 
Crucifix. It was placed in a church in the 
town of Cardonax, state of Hidalgo, in 1556, 
and remained there till 1621. 

The image went by the name of the many 
mining districts in which it was located, and 
at last became known as the Holy Christ of 
Ixmiquilpan, occupying a crypt near the high 
altar of the church there. The legend is that 
at the end of sixty years, having been sadly 
neglected, it had become very black and dis- 
figured, so that it looked like a burned object. 
The face had lost its mouth, nose, and eyes, 
which had been gnawed away by the mice 
that infested the old church. Only the beard 
was left. There was scarcely anything but 

68 



I 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the tradition that it had been an image of 
our Lord. 

When the Archbishop of Mexico visited the 
mine in 1615 he realized that it was a most 
improper object for veneration or worship. 
He therefore ordered that it be buried with 
the body of the first great person who died. 
For five years the order could not be carried 
out, as no such person died. Finally, the little 
town of Ixmiquilpan was stirred by a great 
sensation. People had heard sounds from the 
church, such as groans, sighs, blows, sobs, and 
ringing of bells. The curate, on his rather 
infrequent visits, paid no attention to these 
reports and even ridiculed them. Some 
families became so frightened that they moved 
to another vicinity. The curate was at last 
compelled to face the situation. Going to 
the church one night, he himself heard the 
strange sounds. He ran to the neighbors ex- 
claiming, "My children, there are thieves in 
the church, come with me." Nothing unusual 
was discovered, and the crowd dispersed but 
the curate remained. At last, while standing 
near the image and lamenting its unsightly 
condition, he thought he noted a change. A 
neighbor came from behind the altar and, 

69 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

lighting a candle, remarked, "Sefior Cura, 
there is water on the image." Both looked 
carefully and simultaneously exclaimed, "The 
Christ is perspiring; it has renovated itself.'' 
Great was their astonishment to find a per- 
fectly restored figure in the place of the former 
hideous object. 

The people gathered, some awe-struck, 
others incredulous. Then the eyes of the 
image opened and the lips moved as though 
it were endeavoring to speak. The body 
swayed toward the altar and it was decided 
that it wished to be placed there. The sick 
were brought before it and were healed. The 
lame returned to their homes walking upright. 
The blind received their sight and a dead per- 
son was actually restored to life. The curate 
hesitated to inform the Archbishop lest he 
be censured for taking part in the restora- 
tion of the image. A document was therefore 
drawn up and over seventy testimonies were 
given in proof of the miracle. The Arch- 
bishop declared that the image must be 
brought to Mexico City and placed in a suit- 
able shrine. But the people of the mining 
districts adored it so much for its miraculous 
interpositions that they determined to fight 

70 




A CORNER OF SANTA TERESA CHURCH 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the messengers. Finally, when threatened 
with excommunication, they desisted. The 
worshipers increased so fast that a chapel on 
the present site was built and dedicated May 
17, 1 813. Though the figure restored itself 
and could heal all kinds of infirmities, it was 
injured in the earthquake of April 7, 1845, 
which came near demolishing the chapel and 
almost destroying the image itself. 

To the satisfaction of the faithful, most of 
the parts were found and taken to the con- 
vent, where the nuns shed copious tears over 
the misfortune. However, a sculptor was 
summoned with numerous artisans, and after 
long and most careful work, the separate parts 
were united. 

The image remained in the Cathedral till 
it was finally placed on the restored altar 
May 9, 1858, in its present resting place in 
the chapel of the Church of Santa Teresa de 
la Antigua, Mexico City. 

The picture here presented gives only one 
corner of the chapel. On the high altar is 
seen the holy image under the marble balda- 
chin. Above the high altar in the vaulted 
ceiling is a painting depicting one of the 
events in the renovation of the image. The 

7Z 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

second circle in the vault is filled with gilded 
pateras. Three rows of small electric lamps 
follow the arched lines, others cross diagonally 
the cupola of the shrine on the altar. 

On the vaulted roof of the dome, over the 
center of the nave, is a painting of God the 
Father, surrounded with the virtues of the 
fifth celestial choir. The stained-glass win- 
dows are superb, the allegorical figures repre- 
senting astronomy, history, poetry, and music. 
In the spandrels appear some of the apostles. 
Along the arches of the choir are seven alle- 
gorical paintings of the passion of Christ. The 
Latin inscription around the circle, beneath 
the windows, reads: ^^Verhum caro factum est 
et habitavit in nobis." 

In the center of each of the two lateral 
altars is a very large oil painting, one repre- 
senting the transfiguration of Christ, the other 
the ascension of the Virgin. Finely wrought 
statues are on all the altars. The Doric fluted 
pillars in the four corners stand out beyond 
colossal inner columns. Each base is colored 
in red and gold. The cornices are gilded, 
and festoons of gilt flowers are looped at the 
corners. The chapel is richly carpeted, add- 
ing elegance to this wonderful shrine — prob- 

74 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

ably, in its entirety, the finest in the City of 
Mexico. 

THE CHURCH OF SAN AGUSTIN 

The Church of San Agustin is situated in 
the very heart of the city, fronting on two 
prominent streets, with the old atrium con- 
verted into an ornamental garden extending 




SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH 

the entire length of the building. The whole 
property is inclosed by an iron fence whose 
twenty posts are surmounted by busts of Aztec 
and Mexican celebrities. A fine statue of 
Baron Humboldt, the gift of the German 

75 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

colony, was placed in the garden at the time 
of Mexico's Centennial Celebration in 1910. 

The original church was built by the 
Augustinian Order in the year 1541, but like 
so many of the older churches it was de- 
stroyed by fire and was rebuilt during the 
years from 1677 to 1692. The present edifice 
is in the form of a Greek cross, the facade 
still retaining the decorations of the ancient 
building, and having as its central figure an 
imposing statue of San Agustin in bishop's 
robes standing in the midst of monks who bow 
before him in adoration. He holds in the 
palm of his left hand a miniature stone church, 
while at each shoulder is an angel in the act 
of holding up his cloak, which is painted to 
represent the drop curtain of a theater. 

Formerly the Church of San Agustin was 
one of the wealthiest in the country, possess- 
ing much real estate and many superb paint- 
ings. It is said that the carved walnut choir, 
which contained two hundred and fifty stalls 
decorated with carvings representing scenes 
from the Old Testament, cost $240,000. 

When Benito Juarez was President of 
Mexico, the then Minister of Justice peti- 
tioned him to establish in San Agustin a 

76 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

National Library, which would house among 
other books the collection from the suppressed 
monasteries. As all church property, accord- 
ing to the Laws of Reform, had been taken 
over by the government, it only remained for 
Congress to set apart by formal action the 
church to the use proposed, which was done. 

The choir was removed to the National 
Preparatory School and the magnificent 
paintings of the church and convent were 
transferred to the Academy of Fine Arts. It 
took fifteen years to prepare the building for 
the reception of the books which had been 
stored in the Church of the Tercer Orden, 
situated at the extreme end of the garden. In 
1909 this latter structure was renovated and 
opened for night use, thus meeting some of 
the demands upon the main building. 

One familiar with the interior of San 
Agustin in its ecclesiastic days would hardly 
recognize it now. On either side of the en- 
trance are medallion portraits. A partition 
across the entrance separates the main portal 
from the reading room, which is 160 feet long, 
40 feet wide and 100 feet high. Oak desks 
with seats extend its entire length. On the 
balustrade of the choir is a colossal statue of 

77 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Flying Time, balanced on a globe with an 
iron pivot through the sole of the left foot, so 
strongly poised that none of the many severe 
earthquake shocks have injured it. Three 
flights of wooden stairs lead to a room over 
the choir, the sides of which are lined with 
bookshelves. Two small tables with chairs 
accommodate the readers, while a large win- 
dow in the rear gives ample light. The 
chapels on each side of the nave have been 
turned into alcoves with bookshelves. Six- 
teen statues representing some of the fathers 
of learning stand on pedestals at the base'of 
the supporting columns — among them Con- 
fucius, Isaiah, Homer, Plato, Paul, Aristo- 
phanes, Cuvier, and Humboldt. 

The collection of books, while not large, 
contains many volumes both valuable and 
rare. There are immense volumes, every one 
of whose letters was made with a pen. One 
book contains the autograph signatures of the 
soldiers of Cortez. A roll of deer-skin shows 
the original picture-writing of the Aztecs. It 
may be added that about twenty thousand 
persons annually avail themselves of the privi- 
leges of this library which was once a church. 



78 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

THE CONVENT AND CHURCH OF JESUS MARIA 

The Convent of Jesus Maria was founded 
in 1577 by two men who purposed that only 
the descendants of the conquerors should be 
the inmates. One of the early nuns was said 
to be the daughter of Philip II of Spain and 
a niece of Archbishop Pedro Moya de Con- 
treras, Viceroy of Mexico and first Inquisitor 
General. Large sums for the support of the 
convent were given from the Royal Treasury 
of Spain and the Viceroyal Exchequer of 
Mexico. 

From the dome hangs an old-fashioned 
chandelier of solid metal of great weight. 
Candles are in the sockets, but electric lamps 
now hang from the pendants. Under a very 
fine grilled balcony from which the nuns used 
to hear mass is the entrance to a small chapel. 
In the baclvground is a miniature of the Virgin 
at the grotto of Lourdes, with a female figure 
kneeling in the foreground holding a rosary 
offering. 

The church, which was renovated as late as 
1900, has its dome and ceiling covered with 
small paintings inclosed in gilt moldings 
which fill squares, spandrels, and half-circles, 

79 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

interspersed with gilt pateras. The stained- 
glass doors and windows are of exquisite 
coloring. 

The Church of Jesus Maria has for its 
patron saint, "El Nino Perdido" ("The Lost 
Child"), a painting back of the altar repre- 
senting the child Jesus before the doctors in 
the temple. On the side altar is the image 
of La Santisima Virgen del Rayo. Accord- 
ing to the legend, at two o'clock of August 
1 8, 1807, during a terrific thunderstorm, this 
figure was seen to change its position, to smile 
and otherwise manifest a lively interest, with 
the result that the people give the Virgin 
credit for saving the church on that occasion. 
Many miraculous cures are attributed to her. 
Just a century after this noted thunderstorm 
she was crowned with solemn ceremonies. 

At a service held on the afternoon of the 
second of November, 1910, "All Saints' Day," 
at the base of the large altar there rested a 
catafalque covered with black velveteen with 
a band of white stitched upon it in the form 
of a cross. Black cloth curtains hung about 
the church, covering all the images. A large 
painting on canvas stretched across the main 
altar representing people, life-size, standing 

80 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

up to their waists in purgatorial flames. Some 
were chained by their wrists. Two angels 
stood in the midst, each clasping with one hand 
the hand of one of the persons and with the 
other pointing heavenward. Burning candles 




CHURCH AT CAMPO FLORIDO, MEXICO CITY, 
SHOWING EFFECTS OF THE BOMBARD- 
MENT DURING THE "TRAGIC TEN 
DAYS" OF 1 910 

behind the picture made the flames appear 
highly realistic. 

Purgatory is a very real place to the average 
Mexican, The profits of a certain business 
house in Mexico City were devoted, during 
seventy-five years, to the payment of masses 

81 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

for the soul of the founder. It is not un- 
common, even now, in country parishes to find 
on church doors notices of a "Raffle of Souls," 
by which is meant that, on the payment of a 
certain sum, a ticket is issued which guarantees 
the owner a chance to win the main prize in 
the drawing — this prize being masses for the 
escape of a soul from purgatory. 



82 



CHAPTER IV 

THE CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

(Continued) 

the church of santo doahngo 

the church and hospital of jesus 
nazareno 



CHAPTER IV 

THE CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

(continued) 

the church of santo domingo 

The Church of Santo Domingo, though 
one of the oldest, is still one of the largest and 
finest in the capital and is attended by a ma- 
jority of the Spanish residents. It contains 
a magnificently carved and decorated altar 
and some fine old paintings. An image of 
Christ reclines at full length in a glass case in 
one of the side altars. The hand is bandaged, 
and the feet, which project from under the 
coverlet, are fashioned in dark colored ivory 
with extremely white nails. Women and chil- 
dren, and even men, have kissed these pro- 
truding feet so often that they are gradually 
wearing away. Another image of Christ, 
. nudcj save for a scarf about the loins, repre- 
sents him in a sitting posture, thorn-crowned 
and blood-stained, the whole attitude being 
one of deep dejection. 

85 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

On the eighth of September the Spanish 
celebrate here the Mass of the Virgin of Cova- 
donga. The renown of this Virgin is due to 
the historic battle won by Pelayo, King of 
the Asturias, over the Moors. The battle was 
fought at the entrance to the cave of Cova- 
donga, the Moors hurling rocks, arrows, and 
darts against the mouth of the cave where the 
King and his followers were sheltered. The 
power of the Virgin, the legend reads, was 
on the side of the Spaniards, so that the Moor- 
ish missiles recoiled upon the Moors them- 
selves, causing great havoc in their ranks. The 
Christians then issued from their hiding place 
and completely routed the enemy. 

The statue of the Virgin of Covadonga, 
venerated in Santo Domingo, is made of wood 
and is a replica of the one in Spain. It is a 
little over three feet in height, including a 
pedestal and a half moon of solid silver. The 
dress is made of gold and silver brocade with 
a mantle of garnet-colored satin brocaded in 
silver falling from the shoulders over the back. 
A mantilla of white Spanish lace is held in 
place by a diadem of gold, studded with 
jewels, resting upon her head. In her right 
hand is a golden scepter, and in the left the 

86 



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miniature image of the Christ-child, dressed 
in costly material. 

On one occasion the writer was present 
when the Apostolic Delegate, Monsignor 
Ridolfi, officiated, assisted by other high func- 
tionaries. All were magnificently attired in 
ceremonial dress (rather than the usual 
ecclesiastical garments) adorned with epau- 
lets, gold braid trimmings, and medals, and 
with swords at their sides. Monsignor Ridolfi 
did not take a position before the altar. The 
breviary from which he read the responses 
was held and even the leaves were turned for 
him by assistants. At the mass the archbishop 
and other officials were arrayed in superb 
chasubles heavily embroidered in raised 
flowers of gold thread, under which was a 
tunic of Spanish lace. A number of times 
during the service the vestures of the Apos- 
tolic Delegate were changed. One priest 
would remove a vestment while another 
quickly replaced it, the Delegate all the while 
standing at his place in full view of the con- 
gregation. The bowing and prostrating of the 
assistants appeared to honor him supremely. 

The Dominicans, whose founder was hon- 
ored in the Church of Santo Domingo, were 

89 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

responsible for the founding of the Inquisi- 
tion in Mexico in 1736, in headquarters oppo- 
site the church, the latter occupied by the 
tribunal. The burning-place of the Inquisi- 
tion was on the ground which is now occupied 
by the Alameda, a well-known small park in 
the center of the city. The first burning was 
in 1574, when twenty-one "pestilential Luther- 
ans" were burned alive. The braser was a 
large platform of stone masonry with stakes 
or posts to which the victims were fastened, in 
full view of the populace. After the work 
was done the ashes were thrown into the 
marsh, then located near the Church of San 
Diego, which is still standing at the west end 
of the Alameda. In one of the Santo Domingo 
buildings there was a courtyard with twenty 
arches and nineteen cells, where the prisoners 
were removed from time to time that they 
might enjoy the sun, but where they could 
not communicate with nor see one another. 
The Inquisition in Mexico was abolished in 
1821. 



90 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

THE CHURCH AND HOSPITAL OF JESUS 
NAZARENO 

The buildings which constitute the Church 
and Hospital of Jesus Nazareno were founded 
in 1593 with funds which Cortez left, and on 
the site where he is believed to have first met 
Moctezuma, the Aztec emperor. The land 
was a grant by Charles V of Spain. 

The church is long, with two aisles, but 
without a nave, and there are no columns in 
the main building. The arches of the vaulted 
roof meet, being supported by fluted pilasters 
in the side walls. In general, the church has 
suffered little from renovators. The old altar 
and the large tabernacle are still in place. 
Above the altar steps is the monstrance 
covered in white satin and gold. Near the 
ceiling, under a curtained canopy, is an image 
of Christ with the pathetic face capped by a 
dingy brown wig, under the customary crown 
of thorns. An immense glass case over one of 
the altars contains the image of Christ on the 
cross and is called "Our Lord of the Vindi- 
cated," and from a tablet at the base we learn 
that on the night of November 7, 1732, there 
was a great earthquake and drops of blood 

91 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

exuded from the wounded side of the Christ. 
When the blood was wiped off there appeared 
numerous little red crosses. This image was 
held in high regard by the Conde del Valle de 
Orizaba, who lived in the magnificent blue- 
tiled house, still in perfect condition, now the 
home of the Jockey Club. The Conde pre- 
sented the image to the Church of San Fran- 
cisco, but it was later placed in its present 
position, where it is covered with silver objects 
attesting its miracle-working power. 

Upon another altar, in dark and ancient 
attire, is a small figure called "Our Lady of 
the Bullet," which is held in profound venera- 
tion. It was the patron saint in the home of 
a poor family living long ago in Ixtapalapa, 
a suburb of Mexico City. The husband 
charged his wife with infidelity. When he 
raised his gun to shoot her she fled to the 
image, which received the bullet intended for 
her. This incident convinced the husband 
that his wife was innocent, and ever after the 
couple lived happily together. 

Men of note are buried here. Twenty-five 
mortuary tablets may be counted in the walls, 
but none are to be discovered in the floor. 
Some of these tablets are from eight to ten 

92 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

feet high and from four to six feet wide, and 
cost large sums. Sitting midway in the church 
one has the sensation of being in a pantheon. 

At one time the bones of Cortez rested here, 
being interred in the marble sepulcher in the 
wall at the right of the main altar. This was 
in accordance with the will of Cortez, which 
provided that should he die in Spain his re- 
mains after ten years were to be brought to 
Mexico. He died in 1547, but it was not 
until 1562 that his wishes respecting his body 
were carried out. His remains were first de- 
posited in the Church of San Francisco at 
Texcoco. Seven years later they were trans- 
ferred to the monastery of San Francisco, 
Mexico City, and then, in 1794, to the Church 
of Jesus Nazareno. When the Hidalgo 
Revolution in the early part of the nineteenth 
century took place, so much hatred against 
everything Spanish was engendered that Cor- 
tez's remains were removed to Spain and 
finally buried in Italy. 

The Hospital is contained in two buildings 
of the same size and appearance with double 
patios, or open courts, after the Spanish style. 
The wide rooms and quaint corridors over- 
look luxuriant trees and shrubbery. If not the 

93 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

first hospital in America, this is the first of 
which there are reliable records. The trained 
attendants and scientific methods of to-day 
add efficiency to its historical prestige. The 
Sisters of Charity of the order of "Las 
Antiguas de los Desamparados (Forsaken)" 
are in charge. They are from Spain and 
greatly venerate a picture of the Virgin of 
this name. 

The hospital is maintained by revenues 
from property conveyed to Cortez by the 
Spanish Crown and by him to the hospital. 
Many attempts by government and individuals 
to break the will of Cortez have proved futile, 
the document being sustained by the Mexican 
courts as late as 1885. The property is under 
a special corporation, and the Italian Dukes 
of Ferranova e Montaleone still have the 
right to name an agent to supervise the 
hospital. 



94 



CHAPTER V 

THE CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

(Continued) 

the church of la soled ad 
the church of the black christ 

THE CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN OF ''LA 
CANDELARITA'' 



CHAPTER V 

THE CHURCHES OF MEXICO CITY 

(continued) 

the church (;f la soled ad 

The Virgin of Solitude who is worshiped 
in this church is a small figure dressed in 
robes of black velvet embroidered in flowers 
and vines of gold thread. 

The miracles attributed to this Virgin are 
evidenced by many testimonials displayed on 
the walls at both sides of the entrance and 
over the doors. These are in the form of 
paintings on common tin and are of the poorest 
execution, the inscriptions themselves being 
crudely printed and in very poor Spanish. 
All sorts of ailments are represented as hav- 
ing been cured by the Virgin, sometimes after 
treatment anri rjften without any medical 
attendance. Many accidents are depicted, 
such as a man under the wheels (>f a coach, 
attacked by bandits, or a woman falling head- 
foremrjst from a high elevation. I'hese pic- 
tures fill hundreds of square feet, showing 

97 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

innumerable catastrophes averted through the 
intervention of the Virgin of La Soledad. As 
these small tin paintings cover the walls from 




PRIMITIVE BELFRY 



base to ceiling (aside from hundreds that have 
necessarily been removed) , one can form some 
idea of the thousands of miracles attributed 
to this Virgin. 

98 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

A narrow curved passage leads from the 
main building to a room where are sold 
rosaries, tracts, and pictures. These walls are 
also filled with crude testimonials. One of 
very recent date shows an isolated spot in a 
romantic ravine. A mountain is on one side, 
at the base of which lies a huge bowlder. A 
man in white shirt and trousers and with wide 
brimmed sombrero stands with his gun aimed 
at the great rock. The Virgin appears at 
the left. A man in uniform and another in a 
white suit stand at the right with hands 
spread out, showing fear and amazement. 
The explanation is that the man in uniform, 
an officer, was taken prisoner in Durango by 
the rebel forces. When they stood him up 
against the bowlder, he implored the protec- 
tion of the Virgin of Soledad. She quickly 
thrust him to one side and the ball entered 
the rock. The writer asked the woman in 
charge if these paintings could be bought. 
''O, no," she replied, "they are votive offer- 
ings. " Pointing to one recently received, she 
continued, "This woman fell in a fit. While 
in the terrible throes of sufifering the Virgin 
appeared and the woman was immediately 
healed, hence this testimony of gratitude." 

99 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Like all the others it is a personal acknowl- 
edgment of the Virgin's assistance. In a 
small glass case on the table stood a very dark, 
highly polished figure of the Virgin. Noting 
the exquisite carving of the features and the 
embroidered designs on the robes, I remarked, 
"I have never seen anything like this." She 
exultantly exclaimed: "O, no, it is the only 
one in Mexico. It is carved wood in its nat- 
ural color and was made by a prisoner in San 
Juan de Ulua, Vera Cruz." On both sides 
of the main altar on the wall there hang large 
frames like bulletin boards upon which are 
placed these votive offerings in fanciful de- 
signs, hundreds of silver or gold figures repre- 
senting various parts of the human body and 
even bodies of animals, which show the kinds 
of miracles wrought. At the right of the 
entrance to the church, in a large frame, are 
four embossed figures. In the foreground is 
an image of Christ just taken from the cross. 
Mary the Mother, with hands clasped and in- 
tense sorrow depicted on her face, is on her 
knees bending over him. The other Mary, 
in an agony of grief, clasps his feet. John 
kneels at the head, holding a handkerchief 
and weeping. The group is finely executed, 

lOO 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the features and figures having none of the 
repulsive aspect so often found on images in 
Mexican churches, and it was all the more 
attractive as the janitor had just given it a 
good scrubbing. 

On each side of the aisles, facing the short 
nave, are images on pedestals. The one called 
"The Christ of the Column" shows the back 
of the statue terribly lacerated as with a 
scourge. The tassels upon the robe worn by 
the figure are kissed by hundreds daily, so 
they are now completely blackened. San 
Antonio and his faithful dog stand on another 
pedestal, with the bread for the poor. The 
floor is covered with cement, but even this has 
broken away in places, owing to the enormous 
crowds that are continually passing. Two 
handsome fonts of onyx for the holy water 
rest on pedestals. 

In former times bandits frequented this 
church and criminals were in the habit of 
wearing a scapular with the image of the 
Virgin of Solitude. The following incident is 
well accredited : when General Santa Ana 
was dictator of Mexico a great sensation was 
created by the report that bandits had as- 
saulted the train of wagons going to Vera 

lOI 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Cruz and that a considerable amount of 
money had been stolen. The police tried to 
apprehend the culprits but without success. 
The governor of the district, however, hap- 
pened to discover the name of the person who 
paid for the masses the day previous to the 
robbery. In course of time it was revealed 
that this man was the one who led the bandits. 
On the very plain fagade of the church is 
a stone image of the Virgin, with a sorrowful, 
downcast face. She is costumed in a wide 
skirt and flowing cape. The Spanish inscrip- 
tion reads : "None may pass this place without 
aflirming upon their life that Mary was con- 
ceived without original sin." 

THE CHURCH OF THE BLACK CHRIST 

This church was founded by the Domin- 
ican Order in the year 1690. It is a small 
edifice, wedged in between large stone build- 
ings. It has a single dome and one high altar. 
The street on which the church is located is 
known as Porta Coeli (Gate of Heaven). It 
is hardly that. A market known as the 
'^thieves market" is opposite the church, and 
the large majority of the people who attend 

102 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the service are poverty-stricken and unclean. 
Hundreds of them every day kneel before the 
image of the Christ, which is black, so de- 
signed, doubtless, to attract the dark-skinned 
Indians. (There are two other similar black 
images in the Republic.) 

On the image of Christ appears the follow- 
ing inscription : "The Lord of Poison, which 
is Venerated in the Street of Porta Coeli, 
Mexico City." According to the story pub- 
lished by the church authorities, an arch- 
bishop who resided in Mexico many years ago 
had enemies who wished to take his life. He 
had in his home a beautifully carved ivory 
image of Christ. Every morning he would 
kiss its feet and implore its protectipn. His 
enemies contrived to put poison on the feet 
of this image, with the expectation that when 
he kissed them his death would ensue. When 
the archbishop went to the crucifix, as was 
his custom, he found the image had turned 
black from the efifects of the poison — a mirac- 
ulous interposition which saved his life. 

On November lo, 1905, the position of the 
image was changed to an altar on the left of 
the entrance to the church, the announcement 
reading: "Solemn Service in the Church of 

103 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Porta Coeli next Friday, the loth, when the 
altar dedicated to the Senor del Veneno 
(poison) will be blessed by His Excellency, 
the Senor Apostolic Delegate." Great drops 
of sweat are said to appear on this image from 
time to time, which is believed to be a miracle. 

THE CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN OF "THE 
CANDELARITA" 

How Some Miracles Happen 

In one of the daily papers of Mexico City, 
in May, 1912, appeared the following: 

"Near the heart of Mexico City, in a busi- 
ness locality, and wedged in between tenement 
houses, is a small church fifty meters square. 
Here is seen the image of the Virgin dressed 
in cloth of gold, while the image of the child 
Jesus wears a costly robe. 

"On the morning of the first of May, 191 2, 
the curate of this church, returning from the 
Archbishop's residence, entered the little 
church for his customary devotions. To his 
great surprise he found the image swaying. 
At first he thought it must be only his imag- 
ination. Calling the sacristan and some neigh- 
bors, it proved to be a fact. The image 

104 




VIRGIN OF LA SOLEDAD DE SANTA CRUZ 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

swayed as though rocking an infant to sleep. 
The movements began at ten in the morning 
and continued till three in the afternoon, from 
the second to the fifth day consecutively. 

"The following Sunday morning, during 
mass, the swaying was renewed. The congre- 
gation became so excited over the strange 
spectacle that the curate was compelled to call 
for the assistance of the police. The follow- 
ing day the Archbishop sent a representative 
to investigate the phenomenon. The image 
was taken down to see if it was in normal 
condition. Nothing was discovered to cause 
the movements, but when the image was re- 
placed the swaying began again. The repre- 
sentative returned to the Archbishop and re- 
ported the above facts. The curate asked the 
prelate if he should close the church. The 
reply was that it would be better to keep it 
open, in order that the people might have the 
satisfaction of witnessing it. One woman in 
particular was so overcome that she cried out: 
'O, Holy Mother, what wonderful miracle 
are you performing? Is it that there will be 
an end to the fighting in Chihuahua?' 

"An unbeliever remarked that it might be 
only a rat's nest under the statue. A German 

107 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

doctor was of the opinion that a strong breeze 
caused the swaying. Another bystander sug- 
gested that it might be owing to vibrations 
caused by the machinery in a mill fifty meters 
away. These opinions were received with 
scoffing. Later in the day so many had assem- 
bled that more policemen were required to 
keep order. The people had become frenzied 
with excitement; they hooted and threw 
stones. The policemen fired shots to intimi- 
date the crowd which had now increased to 
over a thousand, and one man was seriously 
wounded. Mounted police then arrived on 
the scene and the mob was finally dispersed. 
The next day a government official visited the 
church and ordered the boards of the floor 
taken up. He found that wires had been laid 
underground and connected with the machin- 
ery of the mill, which, when put in motion, 
caused the vibrations which swayed the 
image." 



1 08 



CHAPTER VI 

THE CHAPEL ON THE HILL, 
GUADALUPE 

THE CHURCH OF THE SACRO 
MONTE, AMECAMECA 



CHAPTER VI 

THE CHAPEL ON THE HILL, 
GUADALUPE 

The little church on the top of the hill in 
the village of Guadalupe, three miles from 
Mexico City, is the most sacred shrine in all 
Mexico and one of the most famous in the 
world. This is the legend connected with its 
founding: An Indian, Juan Diego, on his way 
to hear mass at the Church of Santiago 
Tlaltelolco, nearing the hill of Guadalupe, 
saw an apparition of the Virgin, who bade 
him go to Bishop Zumarraga and order him 
to build a chapel in her honor on the hill. 
Tremblingly he listened, and when the Virgin 
disappeared he went to the Bishop and de- 
livered the message. The Bishop having no 
faith in the Indian's story sent him away. 
Again the Virgin appeared to the Indian and 
repeated her command. The Bishop receiv- 
ing the message the second time, told the 
Indian he must bring some proof. On his 

III 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

return home, the Indian found his uncle ill 
and he was obliged to remain by his side. On 
the morning of December 12, 1531, Juan 
started out for a confessor, as the sick man was 
at the point of death. On the way he was 
again intercepted by the Virgin, who assured 
him that his uncle was already well and told 
him to gather some flowers on the barren 
hillside. Immediately flowers sprung up 
where none had ever grown before. She 
commanded him to take the flowers to the 
Bishop. Joyfully he carried them in his 
tilma, a sort of apron made of ixtli, a fiber of 
the maguey. As the Indian dropped the 
flowers at the Bishop's feet there appeared 
upon the tilma the image of the Virgin in 
most beautiful colors. Such evidence could 
not be rejected. A chapel was built where 
the roses had so miraculously grown from the 
barren soil. On February 7, 1532, the tilma 
with the painting upon it was placed over the 
altar within the shrine. In 1754 a Jesuit 
priest was sent to Rome and secured favorable 
action by the Congregation of Rites and the 
feast of the 12th of December was established 
by the papal bull of Benedict XIV. Thus the 
Virgin of Guadalupe was officially proclaimed 

112 




CO 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the protectress and patroness of Mexico, or 
New Spain, and recently an attempt was made 
to have her declared the patroness of all 
America. From that time a great feast has 
been celebrated every year, the chief event 
taking place on December 12. For an entire 
week before that date the railroads are almost 
entirely occupied in bringing trainloads of 
excursionists to the shrine. Thousands more 
come on foot traveling many weary days, 
their backs laden with heavy packs containing 
pottery and vegetables which they sell to pay 
their expenses and for an offering to the 
Virgin. On December 11 every year occurs 
the great religious dance in honor of the 
Virgin, when the Indians dress themselves in 
their most brilliant costumes. They dance in 
single file, in a circle, their bodies swaying to 
the music of violin and flute. Before the 
dance begins and at intervals during the night 
fireworks are set off in front of the chapel. 
It is the fervent belief of the Indians that by 
this dance they please the Virgin and procure 
for themselves a place in heaven. Some have 
been known to dance until they dropped dead 
from exhaustion. 

Juan de Zumarraga, the Archbishop to 
115 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

whom Juan Diego showed the roses in his 
tilma, was a kind and humane man if some- 
what credulous, who used his personal and 
ecclesiastical influence in defense of the native 
Indians. Alas, he had to do with men on 
whom his pleadings on behalf of the con- 
quered race made but little impression. The 
Spaniards, in order to justify their cruelties,^ 
afifected to believe that the Indians were not 
human beings at all. But Pope Paul II, in 
the same year the alleged apparition occurred, 
declared that the Indians had all the essential 
rights of other men, a doctrine that appears 
to have had little effect on the conquerors. 
At the end of this same year, the enemies of 
Zumarraga among the Spaniards averred that 
the whole affair had been trumped up by him 
as a last and desperate means of forcing his 
countrymen to respect the rights of the Indian 
race which the "Mother of God" had taken 
under her protection. This charge was not 
due to any denial of the miraculous on the 
part of the Spaniards, but it went against the 
grain to believe that such a miracle had been 
wrought in favor of a despised and down- 
trodden race. Gradually, however, as the 
people of mixed race formed a class which is 

ii6 




THE IMAGE PRINTED OX THE TILZMA 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

bound by ties of birth to Mexico's soil grew 
in numbers and influence, the Mexican Virgin 
grew in popularity, until her worship became 
not only a test of religious zeal and orthodoxy, 
but of patriotism. The picture of the Virgin 
which is alleged to be the original miracu- 
lously painted by the Virgin herself on the 
tilma of Juan Diego, appears on a coarse 
cloth, six feet long by two feet wide, pro- 
tected by an immense frame and located above 
the altar of the Collegiate Church, which was 
enlarged in 1709 to meet the need of room for 
the great throngs of pilgrims which were in- 
creasing every year. 

The ceremony of transferring the miracu- 
lous painting of the Virgin from the Cathedral 
of Mexico City, where it had remained for 
the four years previous, was perhaps the 
greatest ecclesiastical event in the history of 
the country. The church bells rang for days. 
All the civil and ecclesiastical authorities, the 
students, foreign ministers, monks, and nuns 
of the monastic orders formed in procession, 
the majority being on foot. 

The Collegiate Church at the foot of the 
hill is of brick. Its length is 184 feet and its 
width 122 feet. Tall onyx columns, highly 

119 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

polished, support arches of Moorish design. 
The high altar of marble and bronze, with 
the baldachin, cost over $350,000, silver. In 
the tympanum is a relief, exquisitely carved, 
with the recumbent forms of three angels 
wrought in silver with wings of solid gold. 
There are two staircases of Carrara marble, 
and the newel posts of Choluca stone support 
silver candelabra. The statue of a former 
prelate, together with that of Juan Diego, 
kneeling in adoration before the sacred tilma, 
are of Carrara white marble made by Nicoli 
of Florence. The railing about the great altar 
is of solid silver. A would-be purchaser 
offered to replace it with a silver-plated one 
of the same design and pay a bonus of 
$300,000, but his offer was rejected. 

A conspicuous object half way up the hill 
at Guadalupe is the representation of two 
stone sails, erected by a sailor in fulfillment 
of a vow made during a severe storm, when 
his ship was threatened with disaster. 

Near the church is a small chapel known as 
the Chapel of the Well, under whose dome 
is a well of mineral water believed^to have 
gushed forth where the Virgin touched her 
foot on her last appearance to Juan Diego. 

120 




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INTERIOR OF GUADALUPE CHURCH 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Small buckets are attached to the sides of the 
well and are used by thousands who believeP 
the water has not only medicinal but also 
miraculous healing power. Innumerable 
bottles of the water are carried to all parts 
of the country by devout pilgrims. 

In former years, multitudes of people could 
be seen on the road from Mexico City to the 
sacred shrine, many of whom would crawl on 
hands and knees as an act of piety.~ When 
the writer came to Mexico thirty-six years 
ago there was only one railroad in the country 
— the Mexican railway — from the port of 
Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico. Travel was 
accomplished by the old-fashioned Concord 
coach, known in Mexico as the diligencia, or 
by horseback. Pilgrimages to shrines were 
then made almost wholly on foot. A member 
of one of these pilgrim parties which left the 
city of Queretaro one July for Guadalupe 
gave the following account of the trip : "The 
party attended mass at four in the morning, 
and at five started from the church on the long 
journey. It took nine days — the heat being 
intense during a part of each day, and the 
rain in the afternoons drenching them 
thoroughly. On the road the pilgrims sung 

123 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

psalms and recited prayers on their rosaries. 
At night lodgings were found on farms, where 
their experiences were not altogether pleasant. 
Sometimes rats and mice ran over the bodies 
of those trying to sleep. Some of the pilgrims 
were put in corrals along with the animals, 
which frequently nosed them out of a bundle 
of hay. Provisions were scant and the supply 
of clothing meager, and many were exhausted 
when the trip was only half made." 

A few years ago an important ceremony took 
place at Guadalupe, called "The Crowning 
of the Virgin." The crown, which was called 
the "Imperial Diadem for the Queen of 
Heaven," was made expressly for the occa- 
sion, and was constructed of gold and gems 
contributed by the ladies of Mexico, who 
parted with jewels prized not only for their 
high intrinsic value but as heirlooms. The 
rim at the base of the crown is of twenty-two 
enameled shields, representing the number of 
bishoprics in Mexico. A circular row of angels, 
represented as issuing from roses, all of mass- 
ive gold, support six enameled escutcheons on 
which are emblazoned the arms of the six 
archbishoprics of Mexico. Alternate festoons 
of massive gold roses and diamond stars 

124 




Waite Ptioto. 

THE CROWN OF THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

cluster at the top under an inlaid geographical 
globe on which is shown Mexico and the Gulf 
of Mexico. Above the globe is the Mexican 
eagle grasping the globe with one talon, while 
with the other it holds aloft a diamond cross. 
At the top of the cross is a ring. The shields 
and escutcheons are surrounded with dia- 
monds with rows of sapphires, emeralds, and 
rubies between. The crown is said to be the 
finest piece of work of its kind for sacred 
purposes in existence. 

This crowning of the Virgin took place 
October 12, 1895, and was witnessed by one 
hundred thousand persons of all ranks and 
conditions. Two hundred delegates, prelates, 
and others from Rome and other countries 
were entertained at a banquet after the serv- 
ices. Some of the foreign visitors expressed 
regret that a procession could not pass through 
the streets, all religious processions being pro- 
hibited by the Laws of Reform. The govern- 
ment, however, issued to the church a license 
for a lottery wdiich, with other sources of 
revenue, such as the offerings of pilgrims and 
others, produced an immense revenue. 



127 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

THE CHURCH OF THE SACRO 
MONTE, AMECAMECA 

Forty miles from the City of Mexico, at 
the base of the foothills of the well-known 
volcano Popocatapetl, lies the small town of 
Amecameca, and within the town a small but 
abruptly rising hill, in the form of a cone, 
known as El Sacro Monte — the Holy Moun- 
tain — on whose summit is located a church, 
second only in sanctity and popularity to the 
shrine of Guadalupe. The road leading up to 
the church is paved its entire length with 
cobblestones. Many pilgrims from far and 
near, coming here for relief from physical 
and spiritual ills, climb to the top on their 
knees. At regular intervals on the way are 
fourteen stations, each with its shrine, the 
first of which is dedicated to Saint Helena, 
the mother of Constantine. On the roots of 
the trees, which protrude from the earth on 
either side of the ascent, are hung images, 
tufts of hair, strings, etc., left as votive offer- 
ings by the pilgrims. 

The venerated church at the top of the 
mount is built over a cave in which, if one is 
early enough, he is supposed to hear mass 

128 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

said in Rome. Crude images adorn the walls, 
while on each side of the entrance hang small 
paintings on wood or tin, representing various 
miraculous deliverances from robbery, acci- 
dent, etc., obtained through prayer to El 
Senor del Sacro Monte. A stairway outside 
the church leads to rooms above the cave, 
each containing only a wooden bed and a 
chair, and with a small aperture in the wall, 
which is always barred during the novenas 
when occupied by women who come here to 
practice self-denial, by giving themselves 
to fasting and prayer and self-torture with 
disciplinas. 

The chief object of veneration in connec- 
tion with the Church of the Sacro Monte is 
a life-size figure of Christ in a niche hewn 
out of the solid rock, made of some material 
so light that its weight is but a little more 
than two pounds. The figure is in a recum- 
bent position, the head bandaged and the body 
covered with a velvet robe. Though there 
are many versions with respect to the figure, 
the legend generally accepted is that shortly 
after the Conquest a very holy man took up 
his residence in the cave upon the Sacred 
Mount. He longed for a suitable image of 

131 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the Christ for his shrine. One day some 
merchants, transporting some images from 
Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico, appeared in 
the vicinity. When their pack-mules came 
within sight of the Sacro Monte, the mule 
bearing a certain representative of Christ 
broke loose from his driver and ran to the 
hills. After diligent search the lost mule v^^as 
found in a cave unable to release itself. The 
searching party reported the matter to the 
archbishop, who decided that the animal 
should be freed but that the image should be 
left in the cave of the Sacro Monte where it 
remains to this day. 

The report of the miracle, for such it was 
regarded, induced hundreds to come from 
great distances to see the image. It was whis- 
pered too that, being so light in weight, it had 
undoubtedly been sent directly from heaven. 
(It is probably made of pith.) On Ash 
Wednesday the figure is taken from the cave 
to the village church, where it remains until 
the following Friday, a period that marks 
the greatest celebration of the year in 
Amecameca. Many families attend with 
their entire households, so that the gathering 
assumes the aspect of a picnic. The photo- 

132 




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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

graph shows pilgrims assisting one of their 
number who is almost fainting from exhaus- 
tion on her way up the mountain, while on the 
ground may be seen a rebozo which some 
charitable bystander has thrown down to 
soften the stony path for the bruised and 
lacerated knees. Note the crown of thorns 
upon her head and the coppers in the dish 
which will add to the gift which she may 
present if she can reach the shrine. 



135 




TILGBIM CLIMBIXG OX HER KXEES^ SACP^O 
l^IOXTE, AZNlECAMECA 



CHAPTER VII 

THE CATHEDRAL OF GUADA- 
LAJARA 

THE CATHEDRAL OF ZACATECAS 

THE CATHEDRAL OF PUEBLA 
(CITY OF ANGELS) 

THE CATHEDRAL OF CUERNAVACA 

THE CATHEDRAL OF MORELIA 



CHAPTER VII 

THE CATHEDRAL OF 
GUADALAJARA 

The original Cathedral of Guadalajara, 
like the one in Oaxaca, succeeded a primitive 
church thatched with straw. Most Mexican 
churches have a somber appearance, as only 
a gray dim light penetrates the lofty domes. 
With respect to this the Cathedral of Guada- 
lajara is in striking contrast to the others, as 
a bright light suffuses the entire edifice. 

The interior decorations are in white and 
gold. At the upper end of the nave are stained 
windows with a representation of Christ in 
the center. The choir does not occupy the 
center nave as in other cathedrals, but is placed 
at the back of the high altar, thus giving an 
unobstructed view of the whole interior. In 
the tribune above the entrance is located the 
magnificent organ, built in Paris and costing 
$60,000, its date of consecration, as shown by 
an inscription on a nearby arch, being 1796. 

141 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

The greatest attraction of the church, how- 
ever, is the painting of "The Assumption," 
by Murillo, which unfortunately is hung too 
high (over the doors of the sacristy) in a light 
too dim for close inspection. Napoleon III 
is said to have offered $40,000 for the painting. 
At times the interest in it has been so great 
that the church authorities have concealed it 
in the walls, lest it should be stolen or carried 
ofif by force. 

The great altar, thirty feet in height, is of 
white marble, imported from Rome and cost- 
ing $50,000. One of the blocks is said to 
weigh from twelve to fifteen tons, and only 
those who lived in Mexico before the advent 
of the railroad can appreciate the immense 
labor required to transport the material four 
hundred miles from the coast. 

Earthquakes had impaired the original 
towers of the Cathedral, which have since 
been rebuilt. They somewhat resemble cones 
and are not very high. Along the ridges to 
the pinnacles are lines of incandescent lamps. 
Smaller spires, unlike anything seen elsewhere 
in Mexico, surround the bases of the two prin- 
cipal towers, in one of which there is a small 
bell known as "the bell of the post," which 

142 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

used to ring to announce some important event. 
Another bell, called San Clemente, was rung 
during thunder storms to ward off lightning. 

THE CATHEDRAL OF ZACATECAS 

Zacatecas is one of the most picturesque of 
all Mexican cities. It is over eight thousand 
feet above the sea, is completely surrounded 
by mountains, and is the center of a very rich 
mining district, its total product being reck- 
oned in the billions. 

What is now the Cathedral was formerly 
the Church of '^Nuestra Senora de la Asun- 
cion," begun in 1622 and formerly dedicated 
in 1752. It became the Cathedral in 1862. 
As might be expected from so wealthy a city, 
the Cathedral was richly adorned, but has 
been greatly despoiled in later years. It is 
built of brown stone, elaborately carved, there 
being hardly an inch of the fagade (see illus- 
tration) which does not show marks of the 
chisel, life-size statues of Christ and the 
Apostles being set in niches. The French 
artist who constructed this fagade was, it is 
alleged, sentenced to death for some crime, 
but was allowed to live until he had com- 

143 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

pleted his task. Adopting the Mexican habit 
known as "manana," which freely interpreted 
means, ''Never do to-day what you can put 
off till to-morrow," he managed so to delay 
his work that it took twenty-one years to com- 
plete it. All the while, armed sentinels 
guarded his prison and escorted him to and 
from his work. The confinement told on his 
constitution, however, and at last he informed 
the authorities that he could not work longer 
and was ready to meet the sentence passed 
upon him so many years before. Meanwhile 
his achievements won him so much renown 
that he was granted a pardon, while banquets 
and other honors followed in rapid succession. 
The people, however, had been too dilatory 
in acknowledging his worth, for he died be- 
fore the ship sailed that was to take him back 
to France. 



THE CATHEDRAL OF PUEBLA, 
CITY OF THE ANGELS 

In the year 1529 Bishop Julian Garces 
arrived from Spain. After a time he desired 
to establish a new town near the sacred city 
of Cholula. One night, so the story goes, he 

144 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

dreamed he saw two angels with a measuring 
line laying out a site for a city. On awaking 
he arose and began to search for the place 
he had seen so vividly in his dream. On 
finding it he exclaimed, "This is the place the 
Lord has chosen through his holy angels ; to 
his glory here shall the city be." The city 
was built and is still called "Puebla de los 
Angeles," or Puebla for short. (Another 
version of the story is to the eflect that it was 
Queen Isabella who had the dream and that 
she sent the bishop to find the site.) 

The Puebla Cathedral was begun in 1552 
but was not consecrated until 1649. It is 323 
feet long, 100 feet wide, and 80 feet high, and 
its cost is said to have been $1,500,000, though 
this amount can hardly represent the total 
expenditure. Indeed, there is a legend which 
is believed by thousands of the faithful to 
the effect that when the walls were going up 
angels every night came down from heaven 
and added the same amount of masonry as the 
workmen had laid during the previous day, 
thus bestowing upon the town the title, "City 
of the Angels." 

Much of the interior of this edifice is of 
the famous Puebla onyx. The high altar, 

145 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

whose builder was the noted Spanish architect, 
Manuel Tolsa, is of onyx and marble, the color 
effect being particularly pleasing — the green 
and white of the onyx mingling with the 
deeper tones of the marble. The enormous 
clustered columns that support the arches of 
the Cathedral are covered at Christmas time 
with immense curtains of red silk plush em- 
broidered in gold. The great chandelier of 
gold and silver was seized during the religious 
wars by General Miramon and sold for 
$40,000, with which sum he paid his troops 
for fighting the battles of the church against 
the republic. 

In the sacristy are tapestries said to have 
been made by ladies of the Spanish Court. 
Others are of Flemish make, of the kind found 
in many of the cathedrals of Spain. Some 
enterprising American tourists visiting the 
Cathedral and the Episcopal Palace were 
much interested in these tapestries, and are 
said to have offered the bishop $40,000 for 
them, a proposition which was indignantly 
refused. 

The Chapter Room, which is upholstered 
in Flemish tapestry, contains a conference 
table which is a solid slab of onyx, and is 

146 




PUEBLA CATHEDRAL 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

further furnished with thirty-two carved 
Spanish chairs, presented by Charles V. The 
organ cases are richly carved in native woods. 
The doors at the entrance are very high and 
show some wonderful marquetry work. 

As will be noted in the picture, an iron 
railing now surrounds the Cathedral, showing 
among other designs fifty-four statues of 
angels surmounting the pillars and arches of 
the gateways. These are so poised as to appear 
on the wing. Figures of the twelve apostles 
are distributed on the columns of the railing, 
with pilasters between bearing representations 
of the fathers of the church. The croziers in 
the hands of the apostles denote their jurisdic- 
tion. On the principal gates are basso relievos 
with representations of the founding of 
Puebla, the laying of the first stone of the 
Cathedral, and its consecration. Statues of 
Hope and Charity crown these gates. The 
railing, completed only a few years ago, is a 
memorial to Pope Pius IX. 

Among the paintings and statues of the 
Cathedral is an inlaid picture of Saint Peter 
on the door leading to the bishop's seat, and 
in the shrine above is preserved a thorn from 
the crown of Christ. In a glass case lies a 

149 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

most repulsiv e image of Christ, streaked with 
red paint to represent blood. The face ex- 
presses terrible sufifering. The body is literally 
covered with silver objects as votive offerings. 
The inscription below reads: "Lord of the 




IMAGE IN PUEBLA CATHEDRAL 

Holy Sepulchre, which is Venerated in the 
Holy Basilica of Puebla." A marble statue 
of Christ, life-size, stands on a pedestal just 
inside the main entrance. Chained images, 
with only the upper part of the body resting 
on pedestals, are represented as in the flames 
of purgatory. 

150 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

In addition to the Cathedral there are be- 
tween forty and fifty other churches in Puebla, 
which is about two thirds the number existina; 
before the Laws of Reform were enacted. 
Some of the Puebla churches have been re- 
constructed at great expense. Of the old and 
neglected churches one, with its numerous 
adjacent buildings covering a large area, was 
appropriated by the government for the site 
of a new penitentiary. Another for a time 
served for a freight house and machine shop 
for the railway company. One of the largest 
convent grounds, consisting of five courts, is 
now a Normal School for Young Women of 
the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society. 

THE CATHEDRAL OF CUERNAVACA 

This Cathedral was founded by Cortez be- 
tween 1529 and 1 53 1. The timbers are like 
those used in old Spanish galleons. The nave 
has a central line of crude sun-baked bricks. 
The huge doors swing on pivots. Small doors 
are set into the larger, as in the Oriental gates, 
the smaller being called "the needle's eye." 
The bosses in these doors with ornamental 
heads, suggesting Moorish art, have sharp 

151 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

points capped with an iron piece two inches 
long and an inch wide at the top. 

The interior, though severely plain, is not 
materially changed from what it was a hun- 
dred years before the Pilgrim Fathers landed 
at Plymouth Rock, when within these walls 
assembled mailed warriors, cowled monks, 
and haughty Spanish dons. 

The tower formerly contained a clock, 
which Charles V of Spain presented to 
Cortez, and which is said to have kept good 
time for three hundred years. It stood in a 
frame of wood and iron, four feet high and 
three feet wide. Its ponderous pendulum was 
weighted with twelve pounds of shot. The 
works were of wrought iron, which when 
needing recent repairs these were made by a 
blacksmith. 

The left transept of the Cathedral contains 
a curious gilt coffin holding a reclining figure 
of Christ with the usual realistic bandages 
and a face expressing great agony. 

The curious ceremony of "blessing the 
animals" occurs in the Cathedral yard every 
year. This is a custom based on a tradition 
regarding Saint Anthony, who was born in 
Egypt in the middle of the third century after 

152 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Christ, and who in his youth withdrew from 
human society and lived in a cave in the desert. 
The story is to the effect that when Satan 
tempted Saint Anthony, the latter dared him 
to do his worst. Finally, Satan and a multi- 




CUERNAVACA CATHEDRAL 



tude of fiends fell upon him at night, fairly 
shaking the walls of his little cell and leaving 
him nearly dead on the floor. They trans- 
formed themselves into all sorts of beasts, but 
this did not deter the saint from leading a life 
of solitude and devout contemplation. In- 
stead of cursing the real animals whose shapes 

153 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

had tormented him, he blessed them so that 
they might no longer be instruments of Satan. 
Passing the Cathedral on the day set apart 
to the honor of Saint Anthony I saw an im- 
mense crowd in the grounds. Children were 
there carrying cages with pet canaries. One 
boy had a rooster whose fighting propensity 
required all the boy's strength to suppress. 
Something like a stampede was caused when 
a young man came through the gates with a 
prancing colt which was decorated from mane 
to tail with flaring bows of pink tissue paper. 
Dogs and lambs which had been put through 
a dyeing process were present. A young girl 
carried a parrot cage in which was a very 
active and noisy cat, whose tail hanging 
through the bars was being pinched by mis- 
chievous boys. After a considerable time had 
elapsed a priest emerged from an adjoining 
chapel. He seemed to be much embarrassed. 
With an assistant carrying the holy water the 
priest rushed through the performance of 
sprinkling the animals. While blessing them 
the year previous he was gradually crowded 
to the edge of the stone steps, from which he 
fell to the pavement below, an episode that 
appeared to give much enjoyment to some 

154 




ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL CLOSE, CUERNAVACA 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

students who were watching the ceremony 
from the roof of the neighboring seminary. 

In addition to the seminario and hospital, 
there are connected with the Cathedral three 
chapels which are situated in the extreme cor- 
ners of the immense inclosure, all being sur- 
rounded by high walls. Quaint copings and 
crosses surround the gateways of entrances, 
and flying buttresses have been adjusted to the 
bulging walls. The beautiful Borda gardens 
opposite the Cathedral were the creation of 
Don Jose de la Borda, a Frenchman who 
came to Mexico in the beginning of the 
eighteenth century as an unknown poor boy. 
He became a miner, and in the course of a 
few years found himself the possessor of sixty 
million pesos. He spent a million and a quar- 
ter pesos upon the place till his idea of fairy- 
land was realized. 

The church which adjoins these gardens 
and residence was built by Borda, for in those 
days a church was considered an indispensable 
adjunct to every palatial home. It was, how- 
ever, finished by his son, a priest, after his 
father's death, and is dedicated to the Virgin 
of Guadalupe. 



157 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 



THE CATHEDRAL OF MORELIA 

Surrounded by mountains whose sides 
with the neighboring valleys are clothed with 
verdure the year round, and with charming 
little parks laid out in a most artistic way, 
Morelia, the capitol of the state of Michoacan, 
has much to impress the visitor. It has a 
wonderful old aqueduct with 254 arches, each 
27 feet high and 18 feet wide, the cost of the 
construction of this having been borne by the 
bishop of the diocese, not merely to provide 
an ample supply of water for the inhabitants 
but to give employment to poor workingmen. 

There are scores of churches in Morelia, 
many of them hardly more than a stone's 
throw apart. The Cathedral, which was 
finished in the seventeenth century, is one of 
the finest church buildings in the country, 
somewhat resembling the Cathedral of Mex- 
ico City. 

The reliquary of the high altar is of finely 
chiseled gold and silver. The silleria of the 
choir is carved and gilded, the nave and the 
fine aisles paved with mosaic tiling. The cost, 

158 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

including the candlesticls:s, ornaments, and 
sacred vessels, is said to have been more than 
$7,000,000, silver. The font of solid silver, in 




THE VIA DOLOROSA, MORELIA, WHICH 
PILGRIMS TRAVERSE ON THEIR KNEES 



which were baptized the emperor Iturbide 
and the curate Jose Maria Morelos, one of the 
heroes of Mexico's independence, is greatly 
venerated. A depository for relics, made by 

159 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

a silversmith of Michoacan, cost $16,000, 
silver. Instead of the thousands of candles 
used formerly for lighting the altars, the 
Cathedral now has two thousand electric 
lamps. 

There is in Morelia a splendid avenue 
bordered on each side by fine trees with 
spreading branches. Some years ago this 
avenue was a veritable via dolorosa to many a 
devout penitent, who was expected to traverse 
it on his knees, to which were strapped bands 
of leather studded with iron spikes that pene- 
trated the flesh with every movement, while 
at intervals he flogged himself on the bare 
back with a disciplina that lacerated it at 
every blow. The law now forbids this kind 
of torture, and hundreds of the disciplinas 
have been confiscated by the government. It is 
well known, however, that these instruments 
of torture are used in the convents by devotees 
in retreats during tiovenas, and by the Indians 
in remote towns. The writer's private collec- 
tion contains many specimens, including a hair 
shirt, most of them showing marks of more or 
less recent usage. 



160 




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CATHEDRAL, MORELIA 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE CHURCH AT TAXCO, 
GUERRERO 

THE CHURCH OF TEPOTZOTLAN, 
MEXICO 

LEGEND OF THE IMAGE OF OUR 
LADY OF GUANAJUATO 

THE VALENCIANA CHURCH, 
GUANAJUATO 

THE CHURCH OF SAN ANTONIO, 
COYOACAN 

THE CHURCH IN CUAUTLA 

CHURCH AND CONVENT IN 
ATLIXCO, PUEBLA 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE CHURCH AT TAXCO, 
GUERRERO 

Jose DE la Borda, the patron of the Guada- 
lupe Church at Cuernavaca, who spent his 
life working mines (from which he received 
enormous revenuesj and building churches, 
evidently intended to make the church at 
Taxco, which is about fifty miles from 
Cuernavaca, surpass all others of its size in 
the country. In its elaborate carvings and 
richness of effect the high altar is probably 
not surpassed by anv church in the world. If 
the reader will look at the picture of this altar 
through a magnifying glass and count the 
statues of Virgins, saints, angels, and cherubs, 
he will find upward of a hundred. The 
massive white columns are chiseled with the 
utmost delicacy, while the pulpit and the two 
confessionals of dark wood are richlv carved. 
The sacristy is a marvel of beautv, its walls 
being covered with large canvases by Cabrera, 
among them a beautiful painting of the 
Xativitv, with t^velve scenes from the life of 

165 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Christ and the Virgin. Two large mirrors 
have heavy gold ornaments. The chairs and 
tables are peculiarly and artistically carved. 
The dome is covered with tile-work in various 
designs with an inscription of bold lettering. 
Formerly the entire floor of the church was 
covered with a magnificent India carpet, a 
portion of which now serves as a rug in the 
sacristy. The son of de la Borda was the first 
priest of the Taxco church. 

THE CHURCH OF TEPOTZOTLAN, 
MEXICO 

The first members of the Jesuit Order ar- 
rived in Mexico in September, 1572. They 
lived in Mexico City until the arrival of Dr. 
Juan de la Plaza, a prominent member of the 
Order, who came from Peru in 1580 ostensibly 
to inspect the houses and work of the order. 
He was evidently not quite satisfied with the 
progress made, for he decided the members 
must move to districts where, by learning the 
principal languages and dialects of the 
Indians, they could more effectively perform 
their work. He sent some priests to Huis- 
quilucan, between Mexico City and Toluca, 
where they met with considerable success and 

166 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 



were able to extend their work to neighboring 
villages. 

Later it was suggested to the Jesuit author- 




VALENCIANA CHURCH, GUANAJUATO 

ities that another town, Tepotzotlan, near 
Cuautitlan, might prove an advantageous 
center for work among the Otomis, and a 

169 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

priest with an assistant was sent. In 1584 a 
school was established for Indian children. 
Two years later the novitiate where the candi- 
dates for the Order pursued their preliminary 
studies was transferred from Mexico City to 
Tepotzotlan. Indeed, the place continued to 
be a center of great Jesuit activity until the 
Order was expelled from the country by the 
government in 1873. 

Some years after their expulsion, the Order 
having been permitted to return, the property 
at Tepotzotlan came again into their hands. 
In August, 1908, in honor of the American 
ambassador, the authorities of the Tepotzotlan 
Church arranged for an inspection of the re- 
constructed edifice. The visitors were amazed 
to find in an out of the way place a church 
which v\^ith its decorations and art treasures 
represents a value of several millions, each 
altar being valued at a million. 

The church at Tepotzotlan is itself suffi- 
cient evidence of the zeal for religion of the 
conquistadores, and particularly of the priests 
who accompanied the army, as well as of their 
successors, who demonstrated their faith by 
building churches in all parts of the country, 
often at great personal sacrifice. The illus- 

170 




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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

tration shows three of the altars with their 
elaborate ornamentation. 



LEGEND OF THE IMAGE OF OUR 
LADY OF GUANAJUATO 

In a chapel near the San Francisco Church 
of Guanajuato whose doors are open only for 
short periods at six o'clock in the morning and 
at five in the afternoon, is an image of the 
Virgin which is believed to have existed in 
Santa Fe, Granada, in the seventh century. 
The story relates that when the Moors in- 
vaded Spain in 714 the figure was hidden in 
a cave by the devout people of Granada to 
save it from the infidels, and that it remained 
thus for eight centuries. Though of wood it 
was preserved from decay by its own miracu- 
lous power. In 1^57 the mines of Guanajuato 
were sending to Philip II vast royalties, and, 
in order to show his appreciation, the King 
presented this image of the Virgin. For many 
years it had been recognized as the patron 
saint of the city of Guanajuato, but in 
November, 1907, it was officially so declared 
by papal authority. The coronation took 
place May 31, 1908. The crown, which 

"^71 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

weighs above four pounds, is of gold studded 
with gems. The figure itself is not particu- 
larly attractive. The face is small in propor- 
tion to the body and has a sallow aspect. Its 
wardrobe was so splendid and extensive that 
a vestry for its accommodation was set apart 
in the San Franciscan Church. In times of 
drought and epidemics the image is still car- 
ried to a shrine on the main street of Guana- 
juato, where it is believed it will work the 
needed miracle. 

THE VALENCIANA CHURCH, 
GUANAJUATO 

The Valenciana mining district, where this 
church is located, is forty miles from the city 
of Guanajuato, and contains deposits of gold 
and silver among the richest in the country, 
the total output having been upward of 
$800,000,000, silver. In fact, silver was so 
plentiful in the early days that much of the 
ore, it is said, was built into the foundations 
of the church, and Count de Rul, who was 
one of the chief owners of the mining rights 
of this section, is declared to have sent to 
Spain enough of his uncounted supply of 

174 




OUR LADY OF GUANAJUATO 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

bullion to purchase the rarest wines with 
which to mix the mortar for the walls of the 
church. So lavish was this rich miner that he 
provided purple and scarlet bags of the rich 
material for removing the excavations. The 
peones who worked the mines do not appear 
to have shared in this wealth, however, as 
their wage was but six cents a day, and on the 
religious festivals, which were numerous, these 
poor people gave their services to the build- 
ing of the church. 

The edifice, which is cruciform in shape 
and has but one tower, was dedicated on 
August 7, 1788, and is still in a good state of 
preservation. The interior is elaborately 
carved, with delicate relief ornamentation of 
the piers and arches. Its cost is said to be 
1,000,000 pesos. The high altar in the center 
and the two others located one at each end of 
the transept, have a reredos that occupies the 
full height of the chancel and transept, and 
cost 240,000 pesos. For a time each of the 
thousand miners at La Valenciana gave 
every week to the church the value of a piece 
of ore called "la piedra de mano" (meaning a 
stone the size of a man's hand), which totaled 
an annual revenue of 50,000 pesos and per- 

177 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

mitted a service of great pomp to be main- 
tained. But the once flourishing community 
has now but few inhabitants, and but one resi- 
dent priest. 

THE CHURCH OF SAN ANTONIO, 
COYOACAN 

On the bank of the quiet Magdalena River 
at Coyoacan, about six miles from Mexico 
City, is a chapel dedicated to San Antonio, 
whose image is guarded behind a grill screen 
that is kept securely closed all day. Its archi- 
tecture indicates the time of the viceroys, 
when the chapel was filled with devout wor- 
shipers, most of whom came from the ad- 
joining villages of Coyoacan and San Angel. 

The church is now the property of a lady 
living in Coyoacan. The Indians passing 
along the highway with their vegetable crates 
on their backs, approach the chapel rever- 
ently, often with hats in hand. Through the 
bars they pass humble offerings — perhaps a 
carrot, an onion, or a bunch of lettuce. Into 
a box for alms falls a penny or other small 
coin. After making the sign of the cross, they 
pass on their way apparently with peaceful 

178 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

minds and satisfied hearts. Every evening at 
dusk the owner of the little church, dressed 
in deep mourning, comes to this solitary 
church, opens the screen, gathers the pennies, 
coins, and vegetables, which amount to two 
or three pesos, and retiring, locks the outside 
door. Early every morning she returns, 
opens the door, and places the padlock on the 
grill screen. At the end of the year she gives 
a religious feast from the income she realizes 
by her daily visits. To this feast she invites 
all the Indians for a radius of fifteen miles 
around this solitary hermitage, where during 
the summer months it nestles in luxuriant 
vegetation. 

There are many churches dedicated to San 
Antonio and many shrines where he is vener- 
ated. The majority of his devotees are 
women. If unmarried, they invariably ask 
for a lover or a husband. And it is the general 
belief that the prayers are answered. At 
Panzacola, San Antonio is recognized prin- 
cipally as the patron saint of the harvest. He 
is believed to bring rain, to quicken the seed, 
and ripen the corn. His birthday is cele- 
brated in a religious-worldly manner. A 
mass is chanted and a "rosary" recited in the 

179 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

chapel, while the rest of the day is given up 
to the old-time Indian dances. In all the 
towns and ranches of that region there is eat- 
ing and drinking and boisterous hilarity. 
Though the saint has such divine powers, he 
does not keep away the thieves. A woman 
who lives near the church says the bells were 
taken away from the towers, and sometimes 
robbers insert long rods with hooks through 
the bars of the screen and pull out the vege- 
tables which have been left by the devout 
Indians. 

THE CHURCH IN CUAUTLA 

On the high table-lands of Mexico it is 
always cold during the months of December 
and January, and no words can quite repre- 
sent the sensation which one experiences who 
leaves the capital (whose altitude is nearly 
eight thousand feet), clad in heavy wraps, and 
in the space of four hours finds himself four 
thousand feet nearer the sea level, breathing 
the balmy air of the semitropics and looking 
out on innumerable fields of luxuriant vege- 
tation. Such an experience is for everyone 
who leaves Mexico City in the winter to visit 
the small town of Cuautla. 

i8o 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

The church seen in the engraving is now 
the Cuautla station of the Interoceanic Rail- 
road. As such it is unique, and possibly the 
oldest edifice used as a station in the world. 
In the baggage room formerly stood the high 
altar, and under the dome is a bare arch where 
one can still read the inscription in Latin: 
"How dreadful is this place. This is none 
other than the house of God, and this is the 
gate of heaven." The building was the offer- 
ing of the wealthy Dofia Calderon. It was 
confiscated with other church property by the 
government in 1859. When the Franciscan 
friars left it they stripped it of all its paint- 
ings and ornaments. 

CHURCH AND CONVENT IN 
ATLIXCO, PUEBLA 

In former years this little Indian town in 
the state of Puebla had five churches almost 
within a stone's throw of each other. Now 
churches and convents are in a dilapidated 
state, though still interesting in what they 
reveal of ancient customs and present-day 
conditions. A recent visitor to the convent 
asked to see certain rooms and was informed 

183 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

that they were occupied by the priest of the 
adjoining parish and his family, consisting of 
two sons and two daughters. One of the 
daughters politely offered to act as escort. 
Some of the rooms contain discarded images. 
Off the corridor below are rooms which, when 
the doors are closed, have neither light nor 
air. A small aperture in the wall of one room 
was formerly used for passing food through 
to a refractory nun. The windows are heavily 
barred. 

In another convent of the village the 
Mother Superior speaks to the visitors through 
a small opening in the wall at the right of 
the entrance. On the occasion of my visit 
she wore a garment of coarse brown serge 
with a long rosary and a heavy silver cross 
suspended from her neck. A white band on 
her forehead and a veil did not completely 
hide her pleasant features. After passing the 
compliments of the day I expressed a desire 
to purchase some dlsciplinas — instruments of 
self-flagellation used throughout Mexico. She 
replied that she thought there were none on 
hand but that she could order some. How- 
ever, she found a rope disciplina with five 
braided thongs, which she said was the only 

184 




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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

one for sale. She then left the room but soon 
returned with an iron scourge with spikes in 
it. I remarked, ''That is what I want," to 
which she replied, "It is not for sale, as it is 
in use in the convent." When I informed her 
that I was visiting in Atlixco and would be 
leaving soon she went out again and on her 
return she was accompanied by a young nun 
also veiled. She then told me I could have 
the disciplina. I asked her how often these 
instruments were used, to which she replied, 
"The rope one is used once a day during the 
months of December and January, twice a 
day the rest of the year." The iron disciplina. 
she said, was used "according to the dictates 
of the father confessor." It may be said here 
that in using the iron disciplina the back of 
the victim is stripped and is whipped alter- 
nately over each shoulder, until not merely 
blood is drawn but the flesh lacerated. 

Before my departure the Mother Superior 
directed a servant to show me the private 
chapel where hangs a large figure of Christ on 
the cross, to which sanctuary the nuns are 
accustomed to go at various hours after mid- 
night and pray. At this particular time there 
were fifteen young women in the convent. 

187 



CHAPTER IX 

THE CHURCH OF OCOTLAN, 
TLAXCALA 

THE PARISH CHURCH OF SAN 
MIGUEL DE ALLENDE 

THE CHURCH OF EL ROBLE, 
MONTEREY 



CHAPTER IX 

THE CHURCH OF OCOTLAN, 
TLAXCALA 

It has been customary in Mexico to erect a 
church on the site of every apparition of the 
Virgin. As the story goes, she appeared near 
Ocotlan when there was an epidemic of 
smallpox and a great scarcity of water. Where 
a marvelous spring gushed forth a building 
was erected. 

An Indian sculptor, Francisco Miguel, 
spent twenty-five years in executing an interior 
which resembles a grotto. Vast sums of 
money were lavished upon the embellishment 
of the church and of the camarin (where 
images are dressed), the latter a marvel of 
artistic beauty. In 1852 the interior was par- 
tially modernized by Sefiora Zabalda. The 
floor of the chapel is covered with thick 
tapestry of quaint and beautiful design. The 
altar is of silver and has a figure of solid gold 
in the shrine. The crown of the Virgin is of 

191 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

wrought gold, set with emeralds, rubies, and 
diamonds. 

The ceremony of her coronation in June, 
1907, was authorized by a special papal bull. 
There were present the apostolic delegate, an 
archbishop and bishops from three other sees 
and an immense outpouring of people. The 
Virgin of Ocotlan is the idol of the Indians 
of Tlaxcala, much as the Virgin of Guadalupe 
is of the common people of the entire country. 
Indeed, the legends of the appearing of the 
two Virgins have much in common. 

The authorized version of the Legend of 
this Virgin is contained in A History of Our 
Lady of Ocotlan, published in Puebla in 1907, 
and dedicated to the first archbishop of the 
diocese. This relates how a servant of God, 
Juan Diego, was unable to find medicine with 
which to cure his parents, victims of the ter- 
rible scourge of smallpox. Frequently cross- 
ing the Zaquapan River, it occurred to him to 
fill his pitcher with that water, to which is 
attributed a curative power. Going up a hill 
called San Lorenzo, absorbed in the thought 
of his sick parents, a most beautiful woman 
presented herself and said: *'God save you, 
my son, where goest thou?" He answered, "I 

192 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

go, my lady, to my town and am taking water 
of the Zaquapan to cure my sick ones who die 
without remedy." "Come," the woman said, 
"follow me, and I will give you of another 
water that will not only cure your parents, 
but all who drink of it; for my heart, always 
inclined to help the suffering, cannot endure 
to see so many misfortunes without remedying 
them." The Indian followed his guide until 
they arrived at a small plain, covered with 
pine trees, and she showed him a spring of 
pure water. "Take all of this water you 
want," she said, "and all who take it will be 
free from sickness. Also tell the fathers of 
the Convent of San Francisco that in one of 
the trees they will find my image, and that I 
wish it put in the high altar of the Chapel of 
San Lorenzo." At sunset the same day Juan 
Diego started on his customary journey. The 
fathers and some people from the village fol- 
lowed him without his knowledge. To their 
surprise, they saw the pines burning without 
being consumed ; among them was one, the 
largest, which burned more than the others. 
In this tree was the image of "the Holy 
Queen." To this fire was added the sound of 
sweet music, and it was then that Juan listened 

193 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

to the Queen of Heaven and spoke to her 
again, receiving directions concerning the 
place where she should be worshiped. 

The following day a committee from the 
tow^n, presided over by the Indian, arrived at 
the place. Juan Diego struck the tree with 
his ax; the bark fell and they saw the image 
of the "Queen of Glory." All knelt and 
adored her and took her away from the tree, 
and in compliance with her expressed wish 
conducted her to the chapel of the glorious 
martyr, San Lorenzo, to be known henceforth 
as "The Sanctuary of the Holy Lady." 

The image was left in the place formerly 
occupied by San Lorenzo, but the fathers did 
not take into account that the sexton was a 
devout servant of the martyr. When he closed 
the chapel that night the sexton took the image 
of the Virgin and placed it on one side of the 
high altar, and restored San Lorenzo to his 
accustomed place. But the next day the sex- 
ton saw that the images were as the fathers 
had placed them, and he again changed them 
and took the figure of the Virgin to his home; 
but on waking up the next morning he could 
not find it, and, going to the church, he saw 
it in the place of San Lorenzo. Then, in tears, 

194 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

he went to the fathers and begged their 
pardon. 

Formerly the image was called "The Virgin 
of Ocotlatia," or "The Lady of the Burning 
Pines," but now she is known as "The Lady 
of Ocotlan." 

In what esteem the Virgin of Ocotlan is 
held by not merely the uneducated natives 
but also the rich and cultured is shown by the 
following testimonial published as late as 
1907. (The translation is almost literal.) 

"Sefiora M. de Z , on a certain occa- 
sion, had a coachman, sick with a contagious 

disease. Mrs. Z , out of charity, cared for 

the sick man, believing that with caution she 
would not take the disease. However, she 
came down with it in its worst form. The 
most noted physicians were called to attend 
her, but all were of the opinion that there 
was no remedy. Therefore, Mrs. Z in- 
voked 'Our Lady of Ocotlan,' and, in a few 
days, was completely restored to health. In 

recognition of this great favor, Mrs. Z 

donated $2,000 (silver) for a dress and mantle 
for the image of 'Our Lady of Ocotlan,' and 
ordered it made in Paris. It is sea-blue velvet 

with a fine border of gold. Mrs. Z ex- 

195 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

pected to be present at the ceremony of dress- 
ing the image, but was stricken with a pul- 
monary disease. The doctors said there was 
no hope for her. But as the sick woman 
very much desired to see the Virgin in her 
new dress, she consulted the doctors to know 
if she could live for the forty-eight hours 
required to go from Mexico City to Ocotlan 
in her carriage. Although the physicians 
would not assure her that her life would be 
spared that long the sick woman made the 
attempt, accompanied by a priest, a doctor, 
and some members of her family. After a 
long and painful journey she arrived at the 
sanctuary. She was immediately taken to the 
camerin, the place behind the altar where 
images are dressed. The most Holy Virgin 
was then brought down to have the new dress 

put upon her. While Mrs. Z watched 

the proceedings, she was full of gratitude for 
having her life prolonged to see her desire 
fulfilled, and said: 'Now, my Lady, thou hast 
given me the privilege to see that which I 
have so longed for, and now thou canst dis- 
pose of thy servant.' But, to the surprise of 
all, the sick one began to rally and in a short 
time was entirely recovered. 

196 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

"In testimony of her gratitude she reno- 
vated the sanctuary, erected beautiful altars, 
masterpieces of art, in which work she ex- 
pended thousands of dollars, guided by her 
son, who is now an archbishop of the church. 
She built a house near by, where she spent 
the remainder of her days in praise to the 
benevolent Mother for interceding in her 
behalf. At her death the son donated the 
house as a school for poor girls." 



THE PARISH CHURCH OF SAN 

MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, 

GUANAJUATO 

The town of San Miguel de Allende, 
which was named for the faithful general of 
the patriot priest Hidalgo, is in the state 
of Guanajuato, two hundred and seventeen 
miles from Mexico City. In 1880 the arch- 
bishop of the diocese gave this parish per- 
mission to build a church to take the place of 
the cylindrical structure which had been 
erected in the eighteenth century. The parish 
priest engaged as the designer and builder of 
the proposed new church Zeferino Gutierrez, 

197 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

a local genius, who had never been out of the 
village of his birth. It is stated that he could 
not read or write, and up to the time he was 
engaged for this work he had never seen a 
Gothic building. Each day he drew his plans 
for that day's work in the sand with a stick. 
His death in 1884 left the church unfinished, 
but enough was done to demonstrate the ex- 
traordinary talents of its designer and builder. 

THE CHURCH OF EL ROBLE, 
MONTEREY 

This massive structure was begun in 1792 
and consecrated in July, 1833. During the 
American War (1845-48) it was used as a 
powder magazine, its walls and towers as late 
as 1904 showing the marks made by the bullets 
of the invaders. 

The legend circulated by the natives in 
regard to this building is to the efifect that a 
monk many years ago was in the habit of 
spending many hours in private devotion 
under the branches of a large oak. One 
morning the image of the Virgin, which is 
now in the Church of El Roble (The Oak), 
and which is nearly as black as a similar one 

198 



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f\ /n' 



f'<- i ;! 




CHURCH OF SAN AHGUEL DE ALLENDE 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

at Monserrat, Spain, was observed in the 
heart of the tree. The news spread rapidly, 
and so great was the enthusiasm of the people 
that they erected a chapel called "El Roble" 
and enshrined the image therein. The Virgin 




RUINS OF EL ROBLE CHURCH 



sufifered herself to remain in this new home 
during the day, but at night, though the door 
was securely fastened, she managed to get out 
and returned to her abode in the tree. But 
the tree was one day shivered by lightning 
and the image therefore was compelled to 
remain in the chapel. When the Cathedral 
was finished the bishop appointed a day for 

20 1 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the image to be transferred to a special place 
prepared for it in the new building, which 
was done with much enthusiasm. However, 
the next morning after the transfer was made 
the sacred image was found to be missing 
from its new home. Going to the chapel of 
El Roble, the figure of the Virgin was found 
occupying its old place, its garments showing 
the dust of travel. It was decided that it 
would be useless to try to make the image stay 
at the Cathedral, as neither bolts nor locks 
were proof against it, and it was given over 
formally to the little Church of the Oak. 

The following quotation from a daily paper, 
published as late as 1905, indicates how gen- 
eral is the belief in and respect for these old 
legends : 

"With the collapse of the dome of the Roble 
Church of Monterey one of the most magnifi- 
cent structures in northern Mexico was re- 
duced to ruins. Without warning the crash 
came on the night of October 24, completely 
demolishing the entire church. . . . One of 
the most miraculous incidents connected with 
the destruction of the Roble Church was the 
preservation of the Virgin del Roble. This 
image, the tutelary saint of the basilica, had 

202 




VIRGIN OF THE ROSARY IN SANTO DOMINGO 

DE GUZMAN CHURCH, QUER^TARO, ONE 

OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND 

RICHLY ADORNED OF THE 

MODERN MADONNAS 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

occupied a central position upon a high throne 
of bronze over the altar, and, though the walls 
of the basilica were entirely annihilated, the 
image was unharmed. It fell to the stone 
floor from a height of nearly seven meters, 
the bronze altar which fell with it being irrep- 
arably demolished. Two huge blocks of 
stone, weighing several hundred pounds each, 
fell directly upon the image, but at such an 
angle that they protected it from the mass of 
stone and debris which afterward covered the 
sacred relic with a pyramid of mortar and 
stone. Everything else was broken into un- 
recognizable fragments. But when the Virgin 
was taken out it was discovered that she had 
not received the least injury. Indeed, the 
robes of the Virgin were hardly flecked with 
the dust from the pulverized mortar which 
covered everything else. This wonderful 
phenomenon is considered a divine interven- 
tion, and is so explained by the curate in 
charge. There is no reason to doubt the justice 
of this claim, as many persons of unquestion- 
able integrity have been to see the Virgin, 
and they testify that she is the identical Virgin 
del Roble. No explanation other than this is 
plausible." 

205 



CHAPTER X 
THE CHURCHES OF QUERETARO 

THE CHURCH OF SANTA ROSA 

THE SANTA CLARA CHURCH AND CONVENT 

THE SANTA CRUZ CHURCH, QUERETARO 



CHAPTER X 
CHURCHES OF QUERETARO 

THE CHURCH OF SANTA ROSA 

No description can do justice to this won- 
derful church. Its foundation was laid in 
the seventeenth century, its interior recon- 
structed near the close of the eighteenth cen- 
tury by Edward Tresquerras, poet, painter, 
sculptor, and engraver, who was born at 
Celaya, west of Queretaro, in the year 1765. 

The approach to the church is command- 
ing. From the street one ascends steps lead- 
ing to a wide stone pavement extending the 
full length of the building. The two flying 
buttresses of stone, with their grotesque 
gargoyles, extend out over this pavement at 
the corner where rises a tower of Oriental 
design which, with the dome, are as Tres- 
querras left them. It is generally believed 
that the enormous expense of the tower, dome, 
and cloisters was all realized by the sale of 
merchandise seized from smugglers who in- 
fested the gulf coast. 

209 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

The eye takes in at a glance the magnificent 
view of the small interior. The altars and 




SANTA CLARA CHURCH, QUERETARO 

reredos are a mass of gilt ornaments, and there 
are many huge sculptured figures, fine paint- 
ings, rich wood carvings, and grilled bal- 

2IO 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

conies. In former years the Mother Superior 
and the nuns occupied these screened balco- 
nies, where they could listen unobserved. A 
large crucifix on the wall opposite the en- 
trance is also the work of Tresquerras. Its 
carving is probably unsurpassed by the work 
of any modern artist in Mexico. On the wall 
at the right of the entrance are six oval paint- 
ings representing scenes in the life of the 
Virgin, each painting being garlanded with 
a wreath made of green lacquer alternating 
with gold, resembling the laurel wreath be- 
stowed on the victor in a Roman contest. On 
the left of the entrance is a large painting of 
Saint Nicholas of Bari, the patron saint of 
Russia, who, on the death of his uncle, the 
archbishop, was appointed his successor. He 
showed himself the special protector of the 
innocent and wronged, and is pictured stand- 
ing by the side of a tub in which a man 
had concealed the bodies of three children 
whom he had murdered, but who had been 
restored to life by the saint. According to 
the traditional account, the body of Saint 
Nicholas, who died in the year 342, was trans- 
ferred in 1087 to Bari, Italy. During all 
these years "the manna of Saint Nicholas 

211 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

still flows from his bones and heals all kinds 
of infirmities." In the center of the left wall 
are paintings in green lacquer wreaths, in 
which are depicted the four scenes of the ap- 
pearance of the Virgin to Juan Diego at 
Guadalupe. The side altars, which are sur- 
mounted by statues of angels and saints done 
in gold leaf, have been pronounced by Fred- 
erick Church, the well-known American 
artist and connoisseur, as unique in their 
beauty. The choir screen is superb. Back 
of the wrought-iron grill-work on the ground 
floor is the great organ, and above this grill- 
work are paintings of saints enclosed in the 
lacquer wreaths. Above the paintings is a 
screen of fanciful design, and above that, com- 
pletely filling the arch, an exquisite piece of 
wrought-iron work with the figure of Santa 
Rosa in the center under a canopy having the 
form of a corrugated shell. 

At the head of the sacristy, covering the 
entire wall, is a mural decoration called "The 
Closed Garden," for which Tresquerras re- 
ceived $15,000 (silver). The painting has a 
grayish-blue tone, its figures being exceed- 
ingly graceful and lifelike. The scene is 
allegorical, representing nuns and their pupils 

212 




ELABORATELY CARVED PULPIT AND COLUMNS 
OF SANTA CLARA CHURCH 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

in a convent garden in the midst of fruits and 
flowers. In the center of the picture Christ 
is shown hanging from the branch of a tree. 
At his feet are lambs holding in their mouths 
white roses (a symbol of Santa Rosa) which 
are to be turned red by the blood of his 
wounds. At the left stands an angel offering 
a vase of roses and lilies, on the former of 
which there flows from the Saviour's side 
water, on the latter, blood. 
' Upon the high altar, with upturned face 
and clasped hands, is the image of Santa Rosa, 
in whose honor the church is named. She 
was born in Lima in 1586, and was the first 
canonized saint of the New World. She was 
christened Isabel but called Rose for the 
beauty of her infant face. When in the cradle 
her silence under a painful surgical operation 
early proved that courage and patience under 
sufTering which later developed into a con- 
suming zeal. At an early age she worked 
night and day to support her parents, who had 
lost their fortune. In spite of hardships and 
austerities her beauty ripened with increasing 
age, and she was greatly admired. For fear 
of becoming vain she cut off her beautiful 
hair and blistered her face with pepper and 

215 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

her hands with lime. She redoubled her 
penance. Her cell was a garden hut, her 
couch a box of broken tiles. Under her habit 
she wore a hair shirt studded with iron nails. 
Concealed by her veil she wore a silver crown 
armed with ninety iron points. More than 
once, when she shuddered at the prospect of 
a night of torture, she seemed to hear a voice 
saying, "My cross was yet more painful." All 
her sufferings were borne for the conversion 
of sinners. The thought of the multitudes in 
hell was always in her mind and upon her 
soul. She died at the early age of thirty-one. 

THE SANTA CLARA CHURCH AND CONVENT 

This church is peculiar in construction, 
comprising what is in reality two buildings in 
one, each having its own separate entrance. 
One of these entrances, now closed, opened 
into the chapel used formerly by the nuns of 
the Santa Clara convent. The other door 
leads into the main church, whose long nave 
is divided from the chapel by a screen of 
wrought-iron grill-work. 

The central one of the three altars on one 
side of the church is devoted to "The Sacred 

216 




RICH CARVING IN SANTA ROSA CHURCH^ 
QUERIiTARO 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

Heart of Jesus," represented by a heart of im- 
mense size with a gilt nimbus having a gilded 
ornamental canopy overhead shaped like a 
shell. Similar designs flank the central figure. 
In the center of this altar stands a life-size 
and very white image of Christ with a skirt 
about the loins. It is called "The Christ of 
the Column." The image represents the Lord 
chained to a white post or short column. A 
long, dark wig falls over the shoulders and 
the back shows the flaying by scourges. It is 
most gruesome and is distinctly out of place 
in the midst of such rich and elegant orna- 
mentation. Embedded in a mass of free 
carved wood tracings is an image of the 
Virgin, La Purisima, in white and blue robes, 
with garlands of roses at her feet. 

The sides of the central altar are of open 
work, the projecting leaves and flowers being 
carved wood. The passion flower in carved 
wood adorns one side. A fringe of green 
lacquer depends from the cornices. The oppo- 
site altar and the pulpit have festoons of 
carved wood in flowers, foliage, and fruit, with 
gilt images resting on either side of the altar 
which hold huge cornucopias filled with 
harvest reapings, all in gilt ornamentation. 

219 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

The dome contains eight square windows, 
with old-fashioned small panes of glass. The 
depth between the window casing and the 
outer edge of the wall is three feet, showing 
the thickness of the masonry, and this space 
is lined with gold-leaf throughout. 

The chapel has a large painting of The 
Last Supper, showing nuns in the foreground 
with their faces upturned in adoration. This 
painting was dedicated to the convent of Santa 
Clara by the artist in the year 1783. 

Every church of importance had a convent 
adjoining it, which in former years often 
played a more conspicuous part than the 
church itself. Generally only the daughters 
of rich families were admitted as nuns who 
brought with them a dowry of at least a thou- 
sand pesos as a wedding present, for they 
were henceforth to be regarded as the brides 
of Christ. Some young women gave as much 
as five thousand pesos, and we read of one 
who presented an entire block of real estate 
as her dowry. The Santa Clara Convent at 
one time housed eight thousand nuns. 

In a side street is a chapel once a part of 
the convent, with one dome, now used as a 
carpenter shop, of which the entire floor and 

220 




W'aite Photo. 



PULPIT SANTA ROSA CHURCH, QUERETARO 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the altar platform is laid in tiles. This was 
the nuns' private chapel. 

The convent of Santa Clara is famous for 
its part in the Revolution of 1 8 59-1861. 

THE SANTA CRUZ CHURCH, QUERETARO 

Nearly four centuries ago when the people 
of Queretaro were pure Indians and still ad- 
hered to the religion of their ancestors, the 
chiefs of Tapeji and Tula, with a large fol- 
lowing of their Spanish allies, set out to con- 
quer and baptize them in accordance with the 
rites of the Catholic Church. When near 
Queretaro they sent ahead with proposals of 
peace an emissary whom the people of 
Queretaro did not receive very kindly, as they 
naturally did not wish to surrender to a 
stranger their lands and homes, to say nothing 
of their faith, without a struggle. As the 
Spanish were mail-clad, the Indians reasoned 
wisely that it would be foolish for them to 
attack them with bows and arrows. They 
accordingly returned answer that they were 
ready to fight and proposed fists as the only 
weapons to be used by both sides. The novel 
proposition was accepted, and on July 25, 

22^ 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

153 1, early in the morning the battle began. 
All day long the fight continued. How much 
longer it might have lasted no one can tell, 
had not the appearance in the heavens of an 
angel with a fiery cross put a stop to the 




CHURCH OF LA CRUZ, QUERliTARO 



Struggle. Such, at least, is the story believed 
by the faithful. 

The Spaniards claimed the victory, but, 
according to the account, the vanquished, in 
the characteristic manner of their race, spent 
the night in merry-making, with no sign of 
discouragement or rebellion. They professed 
to recognize his Majesty, Charles V, as their 

224 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

ruler. They were baptized, the conflict 
which preceded being celebrated afterward 
as "The Battle of Baptism." There was then 
erected a large gray stone cross from which 
the church takes its name. The cross now 
stands in the church at the rear of the high 
altar in a glass case. 

In Maximilian's day there was an immense 
painting, extending across the wall of the 
church, for which the artist was offered 
$25,000 (silver), but which he refused. This 
painting afterward mysteriously disappeared. 

It is of historical interest to know that 
Maximilian, when in Queretaro in 1867, had 
his headquarters in this church, the old con- 
vent adjoining being used by his besieged 
troops as barracks. During an unexpected 
assault on the city by General Escobedo, 
Maximilian was urged to flee. He made his 
escape to the so-called '^Hill of the Bells," 
near the city, from which a white flag was 
soon afterward displayed and Maximilian 
delivered over his sword to the Republican 
officer. For a few days during the progress 
of his trial, Maximilian was confined in the 
convent of the Capuchinas in the heart of 
the city. 

225 



CHAPTER XI 
THE CHURCHES OF VERA CRUZ 

THE CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO 

THE PAROCFHAL CHURCH 

THE CHURCH OF SAN AGUSTIN 

THE CHURCH OF THE BLACK CHRIST 



CHAPTER XI 
CHURCHES OF VERA CRUZ 

THE CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO 

The San Francisco Church of Vera Cruz 
was founded by the early conquerors in 1568. 
For a long time it was supported mainly by 
a special tax imposed upon all ships entering 
that port. In common with all other churches 
it was confiscated in 1859, and later devoted 
to secular use. The tower is now a lighthouse 
and bears the name of Benito Juarez, Mex- 
ico's ''little Indian" President. The main 
part of the edifice houses a public library of 
great value and a small but interesting 
museum. 

THE PAROCHIAL CHURCH 

This church was dedicated in 1734 to the 
Virgin of the Assumption. It is very plain 
and not too clean. There are numerous 
grotesque figures in chalk and wood which 
quite fill the interior. Figured cherubim, 

229 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

saints, and patriarchs are standing, others are 
shouldering crosses, and still others are 
stretched in coffins — all denoting agony. The 
sight is really repulsive. The figure of the 
Virgin on the high altar is under a peculiar 
canopy. The baldachin consists of pointed 
arches constructed of wood. 

In a side room is an altar of carved w^ood, 
resembling a ponderous mantelpiece. The 
reredos reaches to the high ceiling. The 
lower shelf is for the books and communion 
service for masses. 

The towers and the lantern surrounding 
the cupola, and even the cross, form a roost- 
ing place for buzzards, which were called by 
the Aztecs "the sacred birds of mystery." 
These congregate in hundreds by nightfall, 
causing considerable noise by their wrangling 
for sleeping places, seeming to prefer the 
church to private dwellings. When morning 
dawns on the black and motionless mass of 
birds the roof resembles a hearse covered 
with black plumes. These unattractive crea- 
tures spend the daytime near restaurants, or 
perched upon the ambulating garbage carts. 
Though their habits are very offensive the 
authorities will not allow them to be killed, 

230 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

a jfine of five pesos being imposed upon who- 
ever injures them, because the buzzards con- 
stitute the scavenger department of Vera 
Cruz. 

THE CHURCH OF SAN AGUSTIN 

The Church of San Agustin is now used as 
a dry goods store, the dome and arched roof 
giving a somewhat incongruous appearance to 
the establishment. 

It was in San Agustin, according to com- 
mon belief which is entirely credible, that a 
large portion of the population of Vera Cruz 
was gathered when the town was sacked by 
pirates who appeared to recognize the King 
of France as their ruler, but who otherwise 
acted as though the only law was their own 
will or pleasure. In an old church register 
written by the parish priest, Agustin Villa- 
roll, appears the following account of the 
looting of the city. The translation is free 
and is largely a summary: 

"Monday, the seventeenth of May, 1683, a 
sail was seen and then another about two 
leagues distant, which were thought by the 
fishermen to be the fleet so long overdue. So 
confident were the people that they retired 

231 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

tranquilly to their homes, believing the town 
perfectly safe from attack. 

"At four o'clock on the morning of the 
eighteenth a fusillade of musketry, followed 
by the whistling of bullets, startled the sleep- 
ing population. Loud cries were then heard 
of 'Long live the King of France!' It proved 
to be an invasion of pirates, some six hundred 
of the savages being then on shore. The first 
person killed was Captain Jose de la Higuera, 
then Manuel del Pvosario, a priest eighty 
years of age. Families only half dressed were 
herded together in the plaza. Finally, the 
church of San Agustin was broken into, and 
people of all ages, to the number of six 
thousand or more, were crowded into it, while 
the sacking of houses and stores went on. 

''On the third day the robbers, after secur- 
ing about everything of value in the town, 
decided to murder the people in the church. 
But such were the prayers to God and the 
cries for mercy that the cut-throats, hard- 
hearted as they were, hesitated, the captain, 
Senor Ramon, otherwise known as Agra- 
monte, ordering a stay of proceedings. 

"In order to secure more booty, the pirates 
in desperation began to search the altar of the 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

church, where they found six silver plates. 
They stripped the images of the saints of all 
silver vestments and ornaments of value. 
They then began to torture people who they 
thought might have valuables which they had 
failed to turn over, and when this failed the 
pirate chief got up in the pulpit and an- 
nounced that he had given orders that unless 
the people disclosed the hiding places of 
their money and jewels they would all be 
burned to death. So terrible was this threat 
that the people were for the moment stricken 
dumb. Seeing that his words brought forth 
no response, the blasphemous scoundrel 
climbed again into the pulpit and invoked 
the wrath of Almighty God upon the heads of 
the poor people, beseeching Deity to allow 
no one to escape unless he divulged the hiding 
place of even the smallest sum of money he 
might have hidden away. 

"At that, the people began to tell where 
their valuables were, and the pirates going to 
these places obtained, by this second effort, a 
little over $600,000 (silver). Agramonte 
was furious because the amount was so small. 
The pirates left no stone unturned to obtain 
more money and treasure. They gathered all 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the wealthy men together, but while parley- 
ing with them, seeing horsemen in the dis- 
tance, they began to get alarmed, and in great 
haste had all the prisoners, excepting the 
priests, removed from the church, whereupon 
the pirate chief rode his horse into the sanc- 
tuary even to the pulpit and told us to take 
up the march but to keep together. Under 
escort we started to a place to the south of the 
town known as Los Hornos, where we were 
taken in boatloads to the Island of Sacrificios 
about two miles ofif shore. The pirates then 
selected the best and younger of both sexes 
and took them aboard their vessels, and later 
sold them on the Spanish Main, where they 
found a ready market." 

Father Alegre, in his history of the Society 
of Jesus (Vol. Ill, Book IX), gives an ac- 
count of the various kinds of booty secured 
by the pirates, the sum total of which was 
valued at $4,000,000 (silver). 

THE CHURCH OF THE BLACK CHRIST^ 

This church is small and very old. It 
stands where, two hundred and fifty years ago, 

1 For the story of the Black Christ, see Chapter V, second 
subject. 

234 




SAN BENITO, THE HOLY NEGRO, WITH MANY 
VOTIVE RIBBONS 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

the pirates made their prisoners halt while 
they debated the question of putting them to 
death while on their way to the landing place, 
en route to the Sacrificios Islands. 

The image of the Black Christ which is 
worshiped here is deep-brown in color rather 
than black, and hangs upon a crucifix above 
the altar set into a large brown frame with 
wooden pillars on each side embedded in the 
wall. Around the loins of the image is 
draped a scarf of blue satin embroidered in 
white. Upon the head rests a cheap crown, 
and from the right hand, which is nailed to 
the cross, hangs a string of pink paper roses. 

At the right of the entrance to the church 
is a statue of "La Piedad" (Pity), which is 
found in so many Mexican churches. She is 
seated, her face deathly white, and the deep 
black eyes looking, almost staring, as though 
still witnessing the dying agonies of the Lord. 
A life-size image of the dead Christ lies 
across her knees, so low that it seems about 
to roll ofif, and with the feet toward the church 
entrance. The neck, mouth, and some of the 
fingers are made to represent the action of 
decomposition. 

Nearly all the images and pictures have 
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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

some history or legend. For instance, the case 
of Santa Rita, a nun, with a dagger mark on 
the forehead, contemplating a skull held in 
her hand. A jealous husband struck the 
dagger into her forehead. Later, after enter- 
ing the nunnery, she contemplated death as 
a penance. 

Another statue, seen in many churches, is 
that of San Benito, the Holy Negro and faith- 
ful slave. It is covered with new ribbons. 
It is said when a woman has a husband she 
does not like, she measures him with a ribbon 
when he does not know^ it, then hangs the 
ribbon on the saint and prays that her hus- 
band may die. Another is the statue of a man 
in full armor on a fiery white steed under 
whose hoofs are images two feet in length, 
dressed in blue and red in imitation of Moors. 
This represents Saint James fighting the 
devil. 



238 



CHAPTER XTI 
THE CHURCHES OF OAXACA 

THE CHURCH OF LA SOLEDAD 
THE CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO 



CHAPTER XII 
CHURCHES OF OAXACA 

THE CHURCH OF LA SOLEDAD 

The legend of the founding of the Church 
of La Soledad (Solitude) is substantially as 
follows : 

Thirty years after Cortez landed in Vera 
Cruz a muleteer was driving a caravan of 
mules laden with merchandise. Approach- 
ing the city of Oaxaca, he noticed that 
another mule, much superior to his own, 
carrying a covered box, had joined his cara- 
van. He endeavored to find the owner of 
the lost animal, but without success, a cir- 
cumstance which gave him great anxiety, lest 
the charge be made against him that he had 
stolen the animal. Arriving at Oaxaca, the 
strange mule dropped in front of a little 
church by the roadside as though unable to 
carry its burden any further. The man ran 
to inform the alcalde and other town officers, 
who hastened to the place where the pros- 

241 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

trated mule was lying. The bands that held 
the box were loosened, and when the lid was 




VIRGIN OF LA SOLEDAD, WITII ROBE EMBROID- 
ERED WITH PEARLS, AND WEARING THE 
CROWN COSTING 1^0,000 PESOS 

removed the image of a Virgin was found, 
together with a note indicating her name — 
"Our Lady of Solitude at The Foot of the 
Cross." The burden having been removed 

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from the mule's back, the animal rose and 
tried to stand, but he trembled violently and 
fell dead. The canon in charge of the little 
church sent for the Bishop of Oaxaca. Being 
impressed with the wonderful miracle, he 
tenderly carried the image into the church 
and guarded it. The story spread rapidly 
among the superstitious masses. People came 
from all parts of the country to pay homage 
to the Virgin. They presented her with 
pearls, rubies, diamonds, and other precious 
stones, pearls from the Pacific Coast pre- 
dominating. 

The rock where the mule fell, and over 
which a church was built, has been worn 
smooth by the kisses of the faithful during 
these four centuries. The present church 
was built at a cost of nearly $500,000 (silver) 
and paid for by a wealthy merchant, Sefior 
Pedro Caraval, then living in Oaxaca. In 
1697 five nuns of the San Agustin Order took 
charge of the robes and jewelry of the Virgin. 
A convent was built next to the church and 
many more nuns were employed constantly 
in the making of the finest clothing. The 
image possesses a magnificent wardrobe of 
the daintiest hand-embroidered lingerie. The 

245 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

pearl-embroidered robe is famous through- 
out the republic. It is made of the finest 
imported black silk velvet, and a few years 
ago 397,920 individual pearls were counted 
embroidered on the robe. 

On January 18, 1908, one of the greatest 
religious gatherings ever held in Mexico took 
place in this church, when a crown, costing 
$150,000 (silver), was placed upon the head 
of the image by the Apostolic Delegate from 
Rome. 

In October, 1866, General Porfirio Diaz, 
afterward for so many years President of 
Mexico, while opposing the Imperialists 
under General Oronoz, forced his way into 
Oaxaca and finally entered the sanctuary of 
La Soledad, where as a poor boy he had often 
been impressed by the beauty and costliness 
of the Virgin's apparel. He seized the velvet 
dress, so heavily embroidered with pearls, the 
gold stomacher, encrusted with emeralds, 
pearls, and diamonds; the necklaces of spark- 
ling gems; the solid crown of emeralds and 
diamonds, and the chalice and crosses set with 
rubies and other precious stones. This ward- 
robe, valued at $2,000,000 (silver), was care- 
fully guarded by General Diaz until the 

246 




SANTO DOMINGO, OAXACA 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

church redeemed it by the payment of 
$20,000. Since then the church authorities 
have kept the hiding place of these jewels 
a profound secret. 

THE CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO 

When Cortez had settled affairs to his 
satisfaction in the valley of Mexico he sent 
a force southward to subdue the inhabitants 
of Oaxaca and thereby open a route to the 
port of Coatzalcoalcos on the gulf, thus 
securing the immense deposits of gold and 
silver in that locality. After the conquest of 
that part of Mexico Charles V of Spain pro- 
claimed Oaxaca a city. Government build- 
ings were erected, the foundations of five 
churches were laid, and those foundation 
stones remain where they were placed four 
hundred years ago. The original Cathedral 
which took the place of a primitive church 
was completed in 1730, one hundred and 
seventy-seven years after the foundation was 
laid. Through the ravages of war the Cathe- 
dral was despoiled of its decorations, and 
nothing is left of it of special interest to the 
visitor. 

In the year 1575 it was determined to build 
249 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

a church and monastery for the use of the 
Dominican friars, and a site was selected near 
the Cathedral. It was expected that the pro- 
posed edifice would be built with money con- 
tributed by the people, but the result of the 
first eflort was not reassuring, as only two and 
a half dollars were found on the collection 
plates. The friars, however, were not to be 
discouraged, and they started out on a cam- 
paign which brought generous gifts, not only 
from wealthy Mexicans but a large contri- 
bution from the King of Spain. The church 
and convent were built. They are of im- 
mense proportions and cost a fabulous 
amount. Some idea of their dimensions may 
be obtained from the statement that four 
buildings the size of Westminster Abbey 
could be accommodated on the ground cov- 
ered by the church and its convent. Owing 
to the thickness of the walls the church has 
withstood many earthquake shocks, though 
the statues have sometimes toppled over. 

It was in connection with this church that 
the Dominicans opened the first drug store 
and dispensary in this new land. Its library 
was ranked among the greatest in the country. 
Whenever the Governor of the state attended 

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HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

mass he was assigned a high seat in the chan- 
cel near the altar. Indeed, there are persons 
still living in Oaxaca who frequently saw 
Benito Juarez, afterward President of the 
republic, occupying this chair during his 
term as Governor of the state. 

In 1865 the French army under Marshall 
Bazaine captured Oaxaca, and the Santo 
Domingo Church and convent were converted 
into barracks. The gold decorations were 
removed and the high altar of elaborately 
carved and gilded wood, enriched with oil 
paintings, was partially destroyed. The walls 
to this day carry the marks of cannon balls. 
Following the fall of the Intervention the 
Dominicans were expelled from the country; 
still the convent proper is used as barracks 
by the federal garrison. 

A few years ago the Bishop of the diocese 
of Oaxaca obtained permission from Presi- 
dent Diaz to restore the church. It should 
be added that since the adoption of the Con- 
stitution of 1857 all churches in Mexico are 
the property of the government, but such as 
are necessary for worship are leased to the 
church authorities for a term of ninety-nine 
years, without further cost than repairs. It 

253 



HISTORIC CHURCHES IN MEXICO 

is against the Laws of Reform for the church 
to hold property except for actual worship. 

The Santo Domingo Church, since its 
restoration, is considered the handsomest and 
richest in the republic. A genealogical tree 
of the House of David is traced on the vaulted 
ceiling. From the tree, running along the 
center, project branches among the golden 
leaves of which may be seen figures repre- 
senting the lineal line of David. The same 
design is carried out on the ceiling near the 
main entrance. A figure of the Most Holy 
Virgin occupies the central position. From 
the branches depend bunches of clustering 
grapes. Between the leaves of gold appear 
busts of thirty-four figures which diminish in 
size till, at the apex, only faces are discern- 
ible. The frescoing throughout is superb. 



254 










■\V.ule Photo. 

THE ''tree of DAVID" ON CEILING OF SANTO 
DOMINGO, OAXACA 



3^77-^ 



